Primer Tips

Assuming you're spraying, I can't think of any different way to apply it.

Usually just one, to check your seams and any other bodywork. If you must refill a spot give it another shot in that area.

Bill Banaszak, MFE

I have a few basic rules I follow diligently when using primer:

1) I use acrylic lacquer (automotive primer) from a rattle can, decanted into my airbrush jar, then thinned about 20% with acrylic lacquer thinner. 2) I use as low an airpressure as I can use, just enough to spray the primer through the airbrush. I move the airbrush in close enough that the primer goes on lightly wet, but move the airbrush quickly so that only a very slight "frosting" of the styrene surface appears (I don't worry about any light "frosting", as the next pass will cover it. 3) I prime first, only those places where I may have done any bodywork, be that filing & sanding down parting lines, or filling a seam or unwanted panel line, or wherever I have used putty. This is what I term a "guide coat", which once sanded out, shows the low spots that need attention, the high spots having been sanded through to bare plastic. Also, such spot priming prevents unnecessary buildup of the primer, so as to not hide surface details. 4) Only after I am satisfied with whatever bodywork is done, do I prime the entire model, and then in the same thin, soft, light way that I spot primed.

Art

My jaw has dropped to the floor coz I have no idea what you have just said. LOL. I haven't got an airbrush yet but I'm sure this'll come in handy as soon as I can make sense of this. Thanks for the input though.