Mike, Yes, your method will work ok for that type of hull shell. My method would be to assemble the hull as normal, then lay some thickish plastic card (20 to 30 thou approx) along the bottom joint as a reinforcement. Then if you don't have say 40-60 thou card to fit as a cross brace at the rear to keep the sides from flexing, use an epoxy to glue in a couple of thicknesses of lollipop stick. You can use superglue (cyano), but it can be brittle and fail if your sawing off the back end gets too enthusiastic. Chek
I'm preparing to build one or two of the RN's frigate designs of the
> late 1940s that were conversions from WW2 emergency-program destroyers.
> To take advantage of WEM's 1/600-scale PE and other existing parts, I'm
> using the Airfix Tribal-class destroyer 1/600 kit as the basis. My main
> interests are in the weapons and electronics so I can live with
> innocuous differences in the hulls. Except for one: The hull of the kit
> is about 8mm too long at the waterline and it ends in a rounded stern
> compared to the transom stern of the emergency-program destroyers. >
> A possible solution is to amputate the Tribal stern and then to replace
> it with card stock and caulk. For this kit, that is radical surgery. The
> hull comes in two pieces and the sternpost is an assembly joint. I'm
> considering that I should first assemble the original hull, insert
> bracing to keep it rigid during cutting, and then add the deck. Has
> anyone advice about this?
>