Returning to modelling after 30 years away

Paasche makes a good double-action airbrush and it's reasonably priced. There are a couple other decent reasonably-priced airbrushes out there but I've only had experience with a Paasch VL. Iwata makes a really nice one capable of getting some really fine lines but the price is through the roof.
If you're going for an airbrush, you should look around for a reasonably good air compressor withg a storage tank - the tank doesn't have to be real big, just enough to even out the pulses of the air compressor. Alternately, some use a compressed air or CO-2 tank to power their airbrush. I haven't tried the compressed gas propellant but others here say it works well. In either case, you'll need a pressure regulator so you can adjust the pressure to the airbrush. Many better hobby shops carry or can order a Paasch and the other medium-priced airbrushes. Not that many carry the high-priced Iwata but you should be able to fine about any brand from on-line distributors and hobby shops. Welcome back to the hobby.

George,
Welcome back!
Check out Dixie Art Supply. I just ordered a new airbrush during Christmas time and they were very responsive, in stock, and reasonably priced.
Bob
snipped-for-privacy@m> Hi

Thanks guys I guess I also need
Paint Filler Sand paper (Home Depot) Thinners Brushes A knife masking tape (other material)
Does any one have any recommendations ?
What have I missed ?

Clothes pins and (if you're really *really* getting back into it) a Dremel.

an emt team to revive you when you see the price of kits.

in article snipped-for-privacy@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com, snipped-for-privacy@mindspring.com at snipped-for-privacy@mindspring.com wrote on 2/17/05 2:35 PM:
Don't forget the bottle of Future!
MB

If you can afford to get them I would suggest the following
Xuron Sprue Cutter from either Micro Mark or Model Expo Tweezers Straight, Hooked, and a Self Locking Pair Zona Saw to cut large sprue connections
Also, don't forget the adhesives. I found this to be the biggest change when I came back to modeling about a year ago after 25 or more years from being out of the loop. I suggest you go to and click on the hobby adhesive tab. You will get a wealth of information of the different types of super bonders modelers are using now. You also should bet familiar with teenax glue available at most model stores. I would also suggest checking out the new acrylic paints. Yes they dry fast but if you thin them correctly they airbrush and brush nicely and clean up is a breeze.

Most excellent. Thanks!

For paint, I prefer Xtracolor or Modelmaster enamels. Filler - Squadron Green and White. I use Green for general filling and then if I need to do more filling I use the White (it's got a finer "grain" to it). Gap-filling super glue also makes a good filler, but you need to file/sand it right away or it gets too hard to sand easily. Sand Paper - Make sure you get "wet 'n dry" paper. It's the type of sandpaper with a cloth backing and not the paper backing you get on regular sandpaper. Most are a dark gray color. Also invest in some tri-grit sanding sticks (look in the cosmetics department of your local Wal-mart or whatever). Used properly, these will even let you polish clear plastic canopies. Thinner - For thinning paint I like to use the paint mfr's thinner. Altho you may not HAVE to use their brand, I seem to get in less trouble with the paint when I do. For cleaning your airbrush out (when you get one), I spray lacquer thinner through it to do the initial cleaning. Brushes - Get the best quality brushes you can afford. I've been steered to Windsor-Newton brushes and have been well satisfied with them. Knive(s) - Get your basic X-acto knife (at least one, I've probably got two or three on my desk that I use on a regular basis), and then get a variety of blades for it. I usually use the #11 blades. Also get a saw blade or two for it, they can be very useful for seperating parts from the sprue when the attachment points are very close to the part. A chisel blade is highly useful, too. That's primarily what I use for applying putty to seams. I also recommend getting a scalpel set. I bought one from Micro-Mark a while back and they are very handy. I got one with the thick plastic handle and use it mostly for trimming sprue attachment bits from parts, for trimming flash and cutting masking on canopies. These are extremely sharp, so you do need to be a little more careful with them than you would with an X-Acto. For masking tape, just get a good quality tape. You don't want the "Dollar General" tape, you want some good quality stuff. A lot of guys here swear by Tamiya's masking tape, but I've never used it so I can't comment. Good luck, and welcome back. 8-)
Don McIntyre Clarksville, TN

Future acrylic floor polish. It is used as a gloss overcoat (which is important to provide the best surface for laying down decals, after which a flat overcoat can be applied to reduce the overall sheen) or to provide a gloss finish after using matte paints. It can also be used as a decal solution to minimize silvering (tiny air bubbles under decals), it is used on transparencies to make them look clearer, it can be tinted with inks or other pigments to allow tinted transparencies, and it can even be used as an adhesive to attach non-stress-bearing small parts, especially to transparencies. It is cheap, self-leveling, very forgiving, easy to clean off if you make a mistake, dries quickly, smells nice, and will not ask for a divorce.
Mark Schynert