Washes, and my years of trouble with them

OK, this topic has been discussed several times in the past, but I'm having trouble getting decent results with washes. I've tried enamels, acrylics, oils, and inks, over gloss and flat finishes. I'm currently using Windsor & Newton artists' Paynes grey, thinned with Testors brush cleaner (I've tried synthetic turpentine, too), over Glosscote. If I put it on heavy, I get a patchy-looking mess. If I go light, I don't get enough pigment in the crevices to effectively darken anything. Usually, the effect looks good when I first apply the wash, but when it dries, it goes bad (either patchy or invisible). Anyone got any ideas what I'm doing wrong? Thanks.

Dave

Reply to
David Graf
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water first! then soap! lather,rinse,repeat how many times do I have to tell you kids? And remember to clean behind your ears!

Reply to
Eyeball2002308

I mostly use washes for figure painting. The one "secret" I've learned is to use something to break the surface tension of the solution. For me that's Photo-Flo. I'm usually using very small amounts of darker versions of an acrylic color base coat, thinned with water and Photo-Flo. (For what it's worth I then follow with a dry brushing using a slightly lighter version of the base coat and finish the figure with a black wash wherever two different colors meet.) This guarantees the wash will flow into the cracks and crevices rather than pooling on higher areas. It won't keep you from going "too light" but it will elminate the patchy looking problems.

Mark

Reply to
Mark Levine

Me on a fact finding mission again...

OK so I am learning that to apply a wash successfully you:

  1. Paint model
  2. Seal it with an acrylic gloss
  3. Mix some oil paint (common colour seems to be burnt umber) with some white spirit
  4. Apply this wash liberally along panel lines and then wipe off excess with a cloth
  5. Reseal and repeat as necessary
  6. Use Mattcote and white spirit to take the gloss away and give it a final seal.

Is this a correct process? I've heard "Futures" being used, I've no idea what this is apart from possibly an American brand of varnish. Is there a UK equivalent? I.e. can I use Halfords clear spray?

Tony

Reply to
Tone

Well, when applying a wash, especially using oils.....you have to do more than "just wash". You really need to apply it as a "controlled wash" to specific areas. After it sets for a half-hour or so; you then should clean up the area with a dry brush. It needs to be 110% clean and dry, with absolutely no thinner present in the brush.

Also, in my opinion, you are using way too strong of a solvent. Try using plain old "mineral spirits"; the cheaper, the better. Pick up the stuff at WalMart that costs 99 cents for a gallon jug. It works wonderfully.

Are you using the premier Winsor Newton oils, as opposed to the cheaper student "Winton" line? The latter should be avoided like the plague.

The good thing about oils, is their flexibility. An oil wash can be easily applied over a matte finish. No gloss is needed. I actually find it easier to apply over a matte finish, than a gloss finish.

Try other colors as well. Good colors to use are Burnt Umber, Burnt Sienna, and your Payne's Gray. Mix them in different combinations, playing with "cool" and "warm" colors. Remember, different colors and pigments, have different opacities.

Reply to
Greg Heilers

Don't forget to dab off the excess wash after it dried. Can be tedious work on large surfaces. But that way you will have control over the strongness of the effect. Together with the wash colour of course.

"David Graf" schreef in bericht news:AnDUb.27116$ snipped-for-privacy@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...

Reply to
Bassie Adriaensen

I originally tried the Winton brand paint (that was all the shop had at the time), and realized the error. I've been using Grumbacher or W&N 'artists' paints since. I'll give it a try with synthetic turpentine and a more precision application. Thanks for the input, all.

Dave

Reply to
David Graf

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