2 ?'s, working with resin and washes

Washing the casting is a good idea. Some casters use a lot of greasy release agents, others don't, but it is better to hedge and wash anyway.

Hi.

Personally, I would NOT start with a Verlinden set for your first aftermarket resin attempt. They *can* (and quite often do) have serious fit issues, and be a general pain with the limited directions VLS provides. That said, just be sure to wash the parts, and when removing excess material, be sure to test fit many many times first before committing to gluing. It really pays to measure/fit and get the fit right ahead of time, I cant stress this enough.

Several ways. One, finish the model, decals and all, but with a final gloss coat over the decals you can then... Mix 1 part dark gray, or burnt umber to at least 10 parts thinner. You can expirement here to get the desired opacity. (use oil paint here) and than using a small brush, paint over all the panel lines on the kit. Wait a few minutes, (max one hour)and wipe off the excess with a clean cloth. You might have to dampen the cloth with thinner to get the excess off. Allow to dry at least 24 hours, than coat with your desired final finish.

You can also finish as above, and then instead of using a wash, you can *draw* in the panel lines with a sharp pointed No 2 pencil. (I use a mechanical pencil) Use sandpaper to keep the point sharp. This can make very fine lines. Clear coat with your desired finish coat.

Find an old kit to expirement with these techniques.

Happy modeling :)

It has often been said that Verlinden is Flemish for "Does not fit".

e quoted text -

thans for all the advice. the verlinen cockpit was only $17 so i figure what the hell. plus it is the only set i can find for the hasa kit. everything else is for the trumpter hellcat. and i got the hellcat for free so no loss to my wallet.

You'll probably want a razor saw, various grit sandpapers, and some thick CA glue. Other than that and an that resin is a bit more brittle (depending on the variety) I treat resin pretty much like any other plastic part - but I use enamel paints, YMMV with acrylics. Just take care with the small parts so you don't crack them - saw and sand everything.

As for the etched parts - always glue them to bare resin or plastic first, then paint. The glue (CA) is stronger than the paint and they'll only flake off later if you try and glue etch over paint.

I like to use a pencil for doing panel lines - I use a .3mm Pentel with an HB lead, or a .5mm and sand the tip of the lead to an elliptical point to get into finely engraved lines. Standard pencil lead looks great, but you can also use an umber artist's pencil if you'd like a bit different color - just choose the color you want.

The other thing I like about using pencils is that if you make a mistake you can just erase it and try again. Paint the model and apply the decals, then pencil in the panel lines, then apply your top coat - matte or gloss. Umber will likely look better against your sea blues than plain graphite.

As for making paint washes - I use the base color tinted with burnt umber to darken it. More thinner, the better. I make washes in small amounts, and apply with a #1 artist's brush. Practice on a scrap part to get the hang, but it's not that difficult - just takes some practice to develop an eye for what you want to shade. You can also use artist's pencils in paces you might otherwise use washes...

...and now that you've made me think, I think I have both these kits myself...nope, not the resin, but the Eduard etch...may get inspired to follow you along on this one...

always glad to inspire a fellow modeller! =3D)

Sean