: 4. Apply filter(s): typically 10% oil paint and 90% thinner; lightly sprayed.
Hmmm. I don't spray the filter.
1) Apply Polly Scale gloss finish
2) Once completely cured (ie, a week?), I moisten the surface
with my thinner of choice (paint thinner)
3) I apply very small "dots" of straight oil paint to the surface,
using complimentary colors, as well as blac, white, gray.
4) Using a clean, flat, moistened brush, drag the dots in the
direction of the fluid flow (down, back, etc).
5) Clean the brush, and now lightly drag the surface again, in
the same direction. Don't go too subtle here, or you will
lose the effect under the final coats.
6) Seal with Polly Scale gloss finish for pin washes, etc.
: 6. Apply pigments.
As in chalks? I generally do not do much with chalks/pastels, as you
lose most of the effect under a sealer coat, and you have to be very,
very careful if it is unsealed not to smudge the pastels.
: As a satin finish is recommenced for filters - apply a clear satin finish over
: the enamel base coat before the filter(s).
Hmmm, I just go for the gloss. :-)
: As a flat / matt surface is recommended for pigments, apply a clear flat
: finish over the wash.
As long as you mean chalk pastels, sure - you want as much "tooth" as
you can get for the chalk to settle into.
: Again using the Testor's clears - they are all lacquer based. Understand
: lacquer can be successfully applied over a fully cured enamel base coat if
: done in several light applications.
I do not like using Testors GlossCote, but many people do so w/out a
problem. I prefer Polly Scale, if I am going to apply a gloss coat, for
reasons already stated.
: This is a lot of different layers of coatings i.e., lacquer prime, enamel base
: lacquer satin, lacquer gloss, lacquer flat.
You can always skip the primer coat. I don't, because I feel it gives a
homogenous surface under your color coat(s). It also tells me right away
if I need to do more to address filled areas or deal with "flow marks",
where the plastic filled the mold cavity, and not always smoothly.
Nor do I use enamals - they take too long do dry. "Is it dry yet?" pokes
the object, leaves thumbprint in the tacky paint. "Dammit!". That is why
I use acrylic, mostly Polly Scale. Once dry, it really does not care what
you do to it.
As for satin/gloss/flat, I'd go with a gloss, but only in the areas
that I am applying decals (Pledge with Future Shine works very well for
this, as I can brush it on!) (what a completely stupid name, J&J!) then
I will gloss for the filtering.
Whether I seal the filtering before washing depends on how brave I
feel. You can certainly pin wash over the filtered surface. Just realize
that any screw up can lead to a distrubance in the filter. Or, I have
used acrylics/water colors to do the wash. Just be careful to be very
light on the sealing coat so you don't disturb the acrylic/water color
wash with an acrylic flat coat like Polly Scale...
: What is recommended for applying after the pigments to ensure they are
: retained on the surface?
Again, generally, none, as you will lose most of the effect. I
don't know of too many local club members who use pastels for that
But, I have heard of people using hairspray, flat, etc.
"I like bad!" Bruce Burden Austin, TX.
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