Re: WASHES

I prefer oils for washes. They are much easier to control, and are more subtle. Enamels, as well as acrylics; always seem to have that "crusty" effect when used as a wash. Start by using precise "pin point" washes, as opposed to an overall "big brush" wash.

For colors, avoid a pure black. Use a dark brown. Burnt Umber is a good general-purpose color to begin with.

Also, if/when buying oils....don't go cheap. Go ahead and buy the top of the line Winsor-Newton "artist" line. At all costs...AVOID the cheaper student line "Winton" colors. You may suffer "sticker-shock" from the initial investment.....but these will last for the rest of your life. In many cases, your grandkids will be using these same tubes fifty years from now....lol.

Haven't tried colored pencils, as I prefer washes or pastels. I like the "forgiveness factor" of artists watercolors for weathering effects. If I don't like result, I can rinse them off and start over. Add a drop of dish washing liquid to prevent beading of the water. If you get a ring where the color dried, it can be gently scrubbed out with a slightly damp brush. When I'm satisfied, the watercolor can fixed permanently with a clear flat overspray. Ground pastel chalks apllied dry with a sable brush work well for final weathering, but it's usually a good idea not to spray a sealer coat over them, as they darken or disappear entirely. WARNING! If you use the soft plastic kit tracks in your tank kit, beware of the new glueable tracks, as turpentine or mineral spirits can attack and melt the plastic, another reason to use watercolor washes. The older vinyl tracks are not affected (these were the type that had to be heat welded together). Gerald Owens