Insights into painting figures please

Hi again all
Ok, so I bought one of the Preiser 100 people sets..... unpainted of course. I have sprayed a base of beige as a skin toning to start out with, but can't
help but think I might've been better off doing them all in a brown and adding flesh tones, as I am modelling the 30's when I imagine many folks would've been dressed rather drably (is that a word???)
Anyway, I would appreciate suggestions on how to pain these effectively yet rather quickly if possible. They are all still on their sprues. Either way I know it will take some time to do them all - I don't mind that so much as paying the prince for the painted ones - nearly fell off my chair at around 2 bucks per tiny plastic man. Mind you, I may end up blind by the process!
Thanks
Steve
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mindesign wrote:

One colour per session. :-) Ie, get the black out, do most of the shoes, maybe some of the bags, the odd trouser, set aside to dry, come back the next day and do all the white shirts, etc, etc. Provided that they're not all standing in one group and you do a fair number of slightly different drab colours, it won't notice that Persons 3 and 44 have exactly the same colour coat. And do what you did - paint the "inner" layers first.
R.
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mindesign said the following on 06/10/2005 12:19:

It might be worth having a look at some military modelling websites or newsgroups, as these people seem to be way ahead of us on things like this! I believe they start off by painting the whole figure black, and dry-brushing colour over that. I'm looking at the sleeve of my light blue shirt as I type, and there is am amazing amount of shadow in all the folds, and it is only actually light blue on the "outer" surfaces, so the idea seems to have some merit.
--
Paul Boyd
http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk /
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The other advantage of painting over the black undercoat is that it deadens the colour placed over it, a much better effect for cloth, than the brightness white gives.
--
estarriol



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Paul Boyd wrote:

In the days when friends & I used to paint lead D&D figures, our last step was a black wash over all the colors. It really highlights the folds and shadows.
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mindesign wrote:

Whatever you do, DON'T use gloss paints (or finish with matt varnish). I have never seen a gloss person, but loads and loads of exhibition layouts seem to be overrun with them.
PhilD
-- <><
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PhilD wrote:

I've been known to work up at least a satin sheen when exercising. :-)
R.
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mindesign wrote:

At a workshop, I saw a demo of how to do this. Base coat of flesh tone(s) first, then one colour at a time, but keep dabs of grey and white on your palette to lighten/darken the colour as you go (you don't want 17 guys with exactly the same shade of brown coat, eh?). Finally, after it's all dried, a light wash of dark brown or black over everything to settle into the creases and add shade effects. Very impressive results. For foreground people, add _tiny_ spots for the eyes and maybe a _tiny_ dash of red lipstick, or small dabs of brown etc for beards and mustaches, but don't overdo it. Less is more. The demonstrator used 0, 00 and 000 brushes, and acrylic paints.
HTH
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Here is a link to a site with some interesting ideas on painting figures, I haven't used the technique myself so can't directly vouch for it, but the results look impressive...
http://www.brifayle.ca /
Ian J.
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On Thu, 6 Oct 2005 16:09:22 +0100, Ian J. wrote:

Really nice reference - thanks.
--
Steve

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...
From a site that I've recently closed (hence the layout has gone to heck) I've uploaded a few pages that may help ... links are obvious but again, this is froma closed site so the layout ... well you get what you pay for. :-)
http://www.britwar.co.uk/gettin1.htm
--

All the best,

Chris Wilson
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Painting figures is a nice little chore. Don't forget that people come in all colors rather than just one shade of beige. Some need to be darker and some lighter for the skin tone. Don't forget to mix the paints on a palette so that you don't have the same colors for everybody. If the color is a bit off on a figure, don't worry as the colors of clothing are all different anyway from one person to another. Basically, the more colors you end up with, the better the set of figures will be. One thing to do with all of the figures at the end is give them a light wash of thnned black color to deepen the folds and so forth in the figure. The coat should be just dark enough to be almost visible at a glance as anything more can be easily overdone. Look at the 3D cartoons that have been done and you will see one of the things that is done is to darken the surfaces that aren't towards the viewer and away from the "lighting" of the scene.
-- Why do penguins walk so far to get to their nesting grounds?
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in article snipped-for-privacy@nethere.com, Bob May at snipped-for-privacy@nethere.com wrote on 10/6/05 1:24 PM:

They tried to get Amtrak reservations, but the train broke down.
--
Ed Oates
http://homepage.mac.com/edoates
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WOW - I obviously hit on something a lot of folks think about
Thanks very much for all the replies ..... great web references and excellent insights/hints
Steve

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Edward A. Oates wrote:

I thought the crew died on the clock and the penguins left before the replacement crew got there.
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mindesign wrote:

If you have children who are into WarHammer, etc., then spend some quality time helping them paint their figures. They'll probably love it, SWMBO will think you are a wonderful father and you get to practice for the ones that really matter <VBG>.
Only troble is, they may want a WarHammer scene on the railway with a chobham armoured 08 shunter towing a laser-plasma thingy on a flat bed truck.
MBQ
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I have to admit that in wilder moments the idea of a Dwarven narrow gauge railway scene has crossed my mind....
--
estarriol



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estarriol wrote: [...]

There are other fantasy RRs to consider. EG, "The Forest of Boland Light Railway," by 'BB', Knight Books, 1969, long out of print I'm afraid, but I have a copy. 'BB' is obviously a pseudonym. The illustrations are by D J Watkins-Pitchford, who also has the copyright on the text, so he may well be 'BB.' The illustrations are charming, with sufficient detail to function as working drawings.
H'm....
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On 07/10/2005 21:08, Wolf Kirchmeir wrote,

See also: http://www.countrysidemodels.co.uk/gallery_boland/fobmain.htm
--
Paul Boyd
http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk /
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Paul Boyd wrote:

Thanks muchly for this link, very nice. Didn't think it had been done, so didn't google. You should _always_ google - you never know what may turn up!
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