Athearn "Blue Box" F7A & DCC

For Blue Box Specials I've found this article to be a useful starting point:

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If you want to buy Digitrax decoders, there are some with the AT suffix which are solderless kits for Athearn BlueBox locos. Basically, you need to isolate the motor from the chassis and then wire up the track power, motor, and (optionally) light. It is pretty simple, but after using a couple of them, I decided to solder the wires for the rest of them. It takes about the same length of time and I find it more reliable.

Ed

in article Eq8Jd.243060$ snipped-for-privacy@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com, DCC Models at snipped-for-privacy@unpublished.com wrote on 1/24/05 7:24 AM:

Frank

I prefer to use the solder in decoders also. For blue box Athearn use a decoder with BEMF, you will be surprised how much extra drive the motor can produce. I have standardized on Digitrax DH163P decoders for Athearn blue box. The DH163 series has adjustable Back EMF and the Athearn motor performs very well with a mild BEMF setting. There are other brands of decoders available that also have BEMF but I like the feature of Digitrax's adjustable BEMF.

Nigel

Western Pacific Model Railways

You have to remove the motor and modify the bottom brush clip so that it cannot touch the frame. you also need to insulate between the motor and the frame. It is difficult to remove the motor mounts because they are glued in place after assembly at the factory. The metal bridge that clips to the top of the motor has to be removed as well. Before you can solder to the trucks the steel parts have to be scraped well to remove the zinc phosphate coating on them. Otherwise you will need too much heat and flux to do the job and may ruin the trucks. The Red wire goes to the right hand pick-up on the trucks The Black wire goes to the left hand pick-up on the trucks The Gray wire goes to the bottom motor clip The Orange wire goes to the top motor clip

Digitrax makes a decoder designed specifically for Athearn. It is the DH123AT. MSRP $20.00 It comes with replacement motor mounts and pre-wired motor clips.

NOTE:----------When you remove the motor clips, > that there is a spring under each one that will pop out and fly across the room and disappear into a time-warp worm-hole if you are not careful to prevent it. Once through the worm-hole it cannot ever come back again. It is gone forever. It takes months to get a replacement spring from Horizon. Ask me how I know this.

F>

It's your choice: the DH163AT is about $28, the DH123AT is $20; for the extra $8, you get back emf, and four more functions; since your bluebox loco's probably don't need many function (the 123 has two, including lighting effects). Back EMF keeps the motor running at a constant speed up and down hills (within limits); both have "supersonic" drive which really smoothes out the bluebox motors at low speeds.

To save another couple of bucks on either of 'em, go for the DH1xxD version which has 7" wires which you solder to the various spots.

Ed

in article ct3kmg$hmi$ snipped-for-privacy@lust.ihug.co.nz, Nigel Nichols at snipped-for-privacy@wave.co.nz wrote on 1/24/05 12:20 PM:

Just swap the top and bottom clips. Be careful not to lose the spring and brush that they are holding in.

I coated the bottom of the engine well with "Hard as Nails", my wife didn't even miss the little bit it takes.

I used a small dowel and pushed gently but, firmily until they came loose. Push a little on one then move to the next.

If you are soldering anyway I wouldn't waste the money on the ...AT versions.

Paul

Better than solder are 1/4" Faston's. Faston's are a terminal lug thingie, available from your local hardware store, that slip over the Athearn power strip attached to the trucks. They fit tightly and eliminate the need to solder to the Athearn power strip, which does not solder easily.

David Starr

I have used Sally Hanson's "Hard As Nails" nail polish ever since it was first introduced, to saturate the windings on my hand-made fishing rods. It is just about the best product of its kind on the market. It is great for insulating Athearn motors from the frame.

I just use two layers of black electrical tape

in article snipped-for-privacy@news.east.earthlink.net, Froggy @ The Pond.com at Froggy @ The Pond.com wrote on 1/24/05 6:11 PM:

Thank you very much for the detailed explanation!

Frank