[HO] Denting a gondola

I'm working on a gondola project -- the prototype was built ca. 1910, rebuilt in the mid 1920s, and then upgraded with new ends and brakes about 1940. My layout is based on the mid 1960s, so the car has been around for a while.

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(1947)

My model is using an MDC 40 foot steel gondola as the starting point. Although the MDC gondola is no award winner, with new grab irons and a few modified details the kit is about the closest to the prototype that I've got -- so it will have to do as a stand-in.

I would like to give the gondola a slightly dented finish, but not to the point that the car is ready for the RIP track or unusable. I don't really want to use the "soldering iron" or "hot light bulb" techniques, because 1) the MDC car has pretty thick sides, 2) I'm not sure that I could simulate realistic dents using this technique no matter what the thickness of the sides are, 3) the car will be operated either empty or loaded on my layout so the inside will be visible, and 4) I still have to decal the car afterwards.

So I'm thinking of using a method similar to what is used to simulate water using gloss medium - paint on a thin coat and them stipple the finish as the medium begins to set. I would stipple with medium (either gloss or matte, I have both on hand) between the ribs on the exterior and along the inside walls of the car. (The floor will just get a few gouges and some light debris glued in place.)

Has anyone tried this method to lightly "dent" a gondola? Any thoughts on the technique? Any other ideas for simulating light dents in the car sides?

Reply to
Mark Mathu
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Sorry: As the caption says, this image is from ca. 1940, not 1947.

Reply to
Mark Mathu

On Wed, 3 Dec 2003 01:30:48 -0600, "Mark Mathu" shared this with the world:

I used the soldering iron method on this

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hopper, and I'm fairly pleased with the results. If you don't recognize it, it's an old Life Like train set hopper, and it has pretty thick sides, too. The trick is to not touch the iron to the plastic, but rather hold it close. I actually used a soldering gun, with the tip bent to allow a larger, more circular area of heat. When the plastic started to soften, I pressed on it with a small rounded rock to deform the sides. The plastic cools fairly quickly as it looses it's heat to the rock. You may also notice that I created some damage to the top rail of the hopper, using the same method.

Kent

Reply to
Kent Ashton

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