Kit assembly questions

Haven't done a kit assembly in years so I'm looking for some advice:
Just ordered a DPM gold "Olsen's Feed Store" Haven't received it yet.
I would like to know:
1. What should be done to the parts (if anything) like cleaning, before
starting to assemble.
2. What is a good glue to use in the assembly of the parts?
3. What paint to use?
Joe Calderone Don't Force it, Use a bigger Hammer.
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I wash with dish soap and water. For glue I use plastic model cement for the buildings, cyanoacrylate (super glue) for some details and non-plastic items. Personally, I like using acrylic paint, such as Tamiya brush on paint found at most hobby shops. Some people like to spray the model with flat black first then dry brush the details with the desired colors, though I've only done it a couple times with good results. Usually, I just paint the colors I want then weather as I see necessary.
Haven't purchased one of the DPM Gold kits yet, but there are a couple calling my name at the local shop. Have fun!
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1. A gentle cleaning of the molded parts with a dishwashing type detergent will remove any mold release residue. 2. Tenax, MEK or any solvent glue/adhesive that works with styrene. 3. I've used Floquil in an airbrush, and most every other hobby paint with success. If using a lacquer based paint, you want to airbrush it on dry or the solvents in the paint will craze the plastic.
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Joe935 spake thus:
Regarding this question: Keep in mind that, unlike those model cars and such that you put together (and botched!) as a kid, one doesn't really use "glue" when assembling structures such as these. The "cement" you use, which goes by a variety of names and brands, is really just a solvent. It's a clear liquid which works by melting the pieces together, and when it evaporates, the pieces are joined as if a single piece. Much less messy than the goopy "model cement" we used to use. You'll find it made by Testors, and also Plastruct (if you go to a plastics place like Tap Plastics).
The trick is to make sure there's a really good fit between pieces, which may require a little work with a file or sandpaper. Use as little cement as possible, keeping in mind that if you get this stuff on the outside of the wall, it can mess up the surface. Small brushes and syringes can be used to meter out small quantities.
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David Nebenzahl
it yet.
cleaning, before
1. Wash using warm water with a bit of dish detergent in it. Rinse well. Repeat before painting if you handled the structure a lot to get rid of finger/hand oils.
2. I prefer Fallers "Expert" and "Super Expert" plastic cement. Both have a fine needle applicator, allowing minimal cement to be used. The main difference between them is working time, "Super Expert" sets up very fast, and I mainly use it on corner wall joints. Get the wall pieces in position and run a thin bead of cement up the inside of the joint. Capillary action pulls the cement into the joint, where a solid bond is created.
3. I use Floquil 'PollyS' for the most part. Occasionally some Tamya acrylics.
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David Nebenzahl wrote in news:45afb8d6$0$17936 $
If you want it to come apart, use the Testers Model Cement. When you're ready, run it under running water for a few seconds and gently twist. Viola! Your assembled building is now a kit again. DAMHIKT.
Reply to
Puckdropper spake thus:
OK, I won't. You mean the Testors *solvent cement*, the clear stuff? Funny, I've used that plenty of times with no problems. Maybe the kit you put together wasn't the right kind of plastic (styrene)? What else could explain your experience?
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David Nebenzahl

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