I bought a Model Power 4-6-2 Pacific, Union Pacific #2295 with the Vanderbuilt tender. With a little cutting and grinding I was able to body mount a MT coupler on the tender frame. Then I installed a Digitrax DZ-143 decoder. Nice! The pickup wires from the tender and engine plus the motor wires matched the color coding on the decoder perfectly. Still, I did a LOT of verifying before hooking up the decoder. Lots of work with a DC power supply and a digital volt meter.
The headlight is buried in the metal boiler and is hooked directly to the track so I couldn't hook it up to the decoder. :( Looks good when track power is on, though)
My layout is still in the construction phase - I'm using Atlas code
55 #5 turnouts and flextrack, with cork roadbed on a plywood base. The connection between the track/roadbed/base is glued with "Liquid Nails". Nice stuff! All rail joints are soldered and joints on curves are soldered straight then bent - result, perfect joints in curves. Suffice it to say my trackwork is good - I can run a 30 car (Atlas & MT's, all with low profile wheels and truck mounted MT couplers) train at full speed through a yard ladder or 3 track crossover, at full speed, backwards. 0% derailments.After installing track, I go over all joints with a file set untill the flux is gone and the joint is nearly seemless. I then take 400 grit sandpaper and rub down the rails. This is followed by a block eraser, a cloth kitchen wipe with alcohol then vacumed. Finally a wipe with a chamouis cloth. Suffice it to say the track is CLEAN.
After working on the 4-6-2, I programmed it and then put it on the main. It runs nice, but it cuts out all the time. I added power feeders to the track, hot wired the Atlas insulated metal frogs and cleaned the track again. Not much help.
Then, I set up a cloth cradle on my desk and hooked test leads from the track to the tender wheels. I ran the engine at med speed and cleaned up the drivers with a piece of broken Dremel cut off wheel. I also cleaned the inside of the tires, where the wipers make contact. I took an X-acto knife and wedged it under the area near the base of each phospher bronze driver wiper and twisted the blade to tweak the wipers into making harder contact.
Next, I moved to the tender - I used the dremel wheel to clean the mounting screw and all contact areas of the axle wipers. I also bent the wipers to make harder contact with the axles. Next, I took each tender axle and put the insulated wheel end in the chuck of my drill. I turned on the drill and cleaned both the tread and the axle with the Dremel wheel.
Now everything was spotless. I could lift the engine's drivers off the rails and they would still run with power from the tender. I did the reverse with the tender elevated and the engine still ran.
Still, it would stop, the headlight would flicker and then the loco would re-start.
Sometimes it'll run 3-4 minutes before stalling, sometimes on 1 second. This is frustrating!
I'm thinking about buying a Kato F3B unit or a GP7/9 and M.U.'ing it to the back of the 4-6-2, with power wires shared between the engines.
Anyone have any ideas what could be wrong with the 4-6-2?
Ken