upgrade??

to DCC and if so what would the possible cost be. TIA< Cost would be the decoder and a little work. Brass actually can be easy if you are careful. The first three rules are isolate the motor, isolate the motor, and isolate the motor. The 2-6-6-6 is a large engine so you could probably fit the decoder in the engine. That way you can use the drawbar connection to get power from the tender without adding any additional wires. It probably would be worth while to remotor as it's current motor probably draws a lot of amps. Look at a TCS M1 (1 amp) if you change the motor, nice and small. You could almost put it in a 2-6-6-6 sand dome.

That loco will probably draw more than an amp under load. This will mean either using an O scale heavy duty module or replacing the motor with something that won't draw as much current as the one that you have. Since most locos are well overpowered, a can type motor will probably do an excellent job in that loco.

-- Why isn't there an Ozone Hole at the NORTH Pole?

I have found that re-motoring an older brass loco can really improve things. They run smoother and slower more like the prototype. I once re-motored a Westside SP 2-10-2 with a Sagami flat can motor, added some weight and that loco could start and pull 40+ cars up a 2 percent grade. I don't recommend that on a regular basis as it puts alot of strain on the rods. The SP loco's top speed at 12V was right around 60 MPH, perfect for a

63 inch drivered 2-10-2. With an Allegheny you can fit the decoder in the boiler and still add some weight. I seem to recall reading somewhere that the Allegheny sand boxes each held about 2 tons of sand each. NOTHING small on those loco's!

John

"Bob May" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@news-1.nethere.net...