Generator wiring

Gents,
Can someone point me in the direction of a website which shows diagrams for wiring up self exciting gennys?
Or maybe someone here can help...
The alternator has terminals marked: ac (yes I know they will be the output ;-} ) A, AF L and MF
Looking at what little wiring diagram I have got it looks like MF and A go together (Via a rheostat?), and AF and L go together (via some sort of voltage regulator to control the aux field windings)
Unfortunatley the regulation bits are missing, so I will have to try and make them up, Any ideas?
Andy G
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Gents,
Can someone point me in the direction of a website which shows diagrams for wiring up self exciting gennys?
Or maybe someone here can help...
The alternator has terminals marked: ac (yes I know they will be the output ;-} ) A, AF L and MF
Looking at what little wiring diagram I have got it looks like MF and A go together (Via a rheostat?), and AF and L go together (via some sort of voltage regulator to control the aux field windings)
Unfortunatley the regulation bits are missing, so I will have to try and make them up, Any ideas?
Andy G
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Has this device got a maker's plate of any sort? What sort of output has it got, i.e., is it a 12V or a 110 - 230V machine?
Regards
Pete
--
Peter Scales

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Peter,
Its a 240v single phase 1.5Kva alternator
Cheers
Andy G
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Peter,
Its a 240v single phase 1.5Kva alternator
Cheers
Andy G
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http://www.smokstak.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=6
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On 28 May 2007 12:10:25 -0700, The wild eye wrote:

Does it have a blue socket anywhere? Rewiring and putting 240v on a yellow socket would be very dangerous. The two don't mate for obvious reasons. You could of course permanently wire to to 240v and fit a blue socket.
The 240/110v switching is normally just a case of series(240) or parallel(110) connection of the windings.
--
Cheers snipped-for-privacy@howhill.com
Dave. pam is missing e-mail
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There is no blue socket just two yellow ones ( one on either side )
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On 28 May 2007 14:28:34 -0700, The wild eye wrote:

Well change one to blue and wire that to the switching such that it gets 240v and wire the yellow one such that it gets 110v and Robert is your fathers brother.
I'd be inclined to chnage the one that doesn't have the exhaust firing at it if 240v use is going to be the norm.
--
Cheers snipped-for-privacy@howhill.com
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Robert may well be my Aunty's husband but I believe that this machine was originally produced with two yellow sockets .
Changing one to blue would be like painting a Lister D pink .
What I need to know is the wiring diagram so I can put it back in its originall state ie switchable between 110v and 240v
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On 29 May 2007 00:55:35 -0700, The wild eye wrote:

If it ever had a 240v outlet it would have had a blue socket. The physical construction (pin layout in relation to the keyway) of blue and yellow sockets is different so you cannot connect 110v stuff to 240v or vice versa. To make the gen have 240v on a yellow socket would be rather unsafe.
Maybe the switch is non-orginal and did arrange the dangerous application of 240v on a yellow socket?
--
Cheers snipped-for-privacy@howhill.com
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Totally agree Dave the standard is yellow 110 blue 240.
Martin P

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wrote:

I also agree that the standard is blue and yellow for different voltage but this looks genuine to me
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o317/Avandriver_photos/specplate.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o317/Avandriver_photos/wiring2.jpg
The two yellow sockets look like they have allways been there and so does the switch
Steve
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The four leads from the generator internals are the outlets of two windings.
The two loops of wire, one brown and one blue are putting those two in parallel to give 110V.
To give 240V, you need to take BOTH loops off the terminals and connection ONE loop between the two middle terminals. The outer pair will then give 240V.
You can wire each of the two Yellow sockets to either of the two outer pairs of terminals, and the 240V socket would go across the outer pair.
Start End Start End X X X X
| 110V |--Link-- | 110V |
------------240V--------------
Note that for parallelling at 110V for full output, the two starts and the two ends MUST be connected as per the original photograph.
As it stands above, the two 110V sockets will have 240V across the outer pins of each, not a big problem but worth mentioning.
If you take one of the 110V sockets out and put a 240V socket in, I can send you a connection diagram of how to wire it up with a change-over switch.
Peter -- Peter A Forbes Prepair Ltd, Luton, UK snipped-for-privacy@easynet.co.uk http://www.prepair.co.uk
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Taking the terminal block as viewed in the picture (No 2)
Label left to right A B C D
A and B are one winding C and D are the other.
The switch is 'probably' a double-pole change-over with 6 connections.
Centre common 1 Centre Common 2 Outer N/C 1 Outer N/C 2 Outer N/O 1 Outer N/O 2
Make sure the switch contacts are handed, ie all the 1's are on the same side!
Each socket:
240V L 240V N
110V1 L 110V1 N
110V2 L 110V2 N
Connect winding 'D' to Switch Centre Common 1 and 110V2 L. Connect winding 'C' to 110V2 N, and Switch Centre Common 2. Connect winding 'B' to 110V1 L, Switch Outer N/C 1 and Switch Outer N/O 2 Connect winding 'A' to 110V 1 N, 240V N and Switch Outer N/C 2. Connect 240V L to Switch Outer N/O 1.
This disconnects the 240V socket on one pole in the 110V setting, but leaves both 110V sockets fed at half power if 240V is selected.
Peter -- Peter A Forbes Prepair Ltd, Luton, UK snipped-for-privacy@easynet.co.uk http://www.prepair.co.uk
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Thank you Peter I will do that wiring when I have finished laying the 30 flags that my wife bought for me
Steve
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I have tried googling for some answers but came up with nothing .
The blue socket is an excitation socket
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???
Could you expand on that answer please?
Peter -- Peter & Rita Forbes Email: snipped-for-privacy@easynet.co.uk Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel
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That anwer was a reply to dave who asked if I had tried to google for info . He also asked "what is that little blue button at the bottom "
The little blue button at the bottom of the spec plate is labelled "Excitation socket " why it is there I dont know because the generator did not need any input volts to make it generate .
I have been out this evening and altered the wiring as your directions and I now have got 240v at each socket .
At the moment the safety aspect of there being 240 volts at a yellow socket is not an issue . The Generator will only ever be used by me so I will know not to connect any 110 volt equipment to it However if at any time I relinquish ownership of it I will put it back to 110 volts .
Steve
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As it now stands, you have it wired as such that you have 110v-N-110v - i.e. a floating neutral. For using power tools and the like, 'on location' this is fine, and reasonably safe, and does NOT require use of an earth stake. However, an RCD will not correctly work if used, as it has no earth reference.
If you wish to use the machine more in anger, and for reference if you come across larger gens used onsite for instance, with RCD's they should ALWAYS have the N and E coupled, a sticker saying so present, and an earth rod MUST be used.
Tim..
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