Villiers W-XII

Spent Thursday tinkering with my recent Ebay purchase WAH358. As I mentioned
before, the carb was missing when I bought the engine as it had apparently
been 'work in progress' when the vendor's father (a Mr Yallop) passed away.
However, I came away with a bag of likely looking bits gleaned from around
the shed and sure enough everything necessary appeared to be there.
I had already checked for a decent spark so, carb assembled and fitted, I
fed it some fuel (I used some 24:1 I already had mixed - anyone know the
correct ratio?) and gave a few experimental swings of the starting handle. I
could feel the odd attempt to fire but it was kicking back so I checked the
timing - must have been well over 45 deg BTDC! I don't know the correct
figure but I reset it to 'a bit' BTDC, feeling the piston crown with a
finger through the spark plug hole. A few more swings produced the odd cough
but nothing sustainable. Though the he plug seemed ok and certainly sparked
well enough outside the engine, remembering the words of a wise old Viking
of our aquaintance I tried a brand new one and away she went :-)
This first run bas brought to a smokey halt when a sticking float needle
drowned the poor thing with fuel but, that attended to and the oily filth
drained from the crank case, it fired up again quite quickly but seemed
reluctant to pick up speed and sit on the governor. I fiddled about for half
an hour or so trying to improve the running then, as it was getting dark, I
decided to call it a day and switched the fuel off. After a few seconds the
engine cleared it's throat and ran up to governed speed, sitting there
until, with a few spits through the carb, it finally came to a halt.
The obvious conclusion is that it is running too rich, the carb needle is a
number 3 which, looking at a few old SEM articles, is apparently correct for
the 1 1/2 hp 'A' engines, but what should the jet size be? When I built up
the carb from my bag of bits I had a choice of two - I went for the one
stamped 3 to match the needle, the other is stamped 2 but looks identical.
Another unknown is the mixture control cam which raises and lowers the
needle for starting - the one in the bag has a distinctly home made look
about it.
Clearly a bit more tinkering is needed - do we have a resident expert on
these engines? A handbook would be useful (checked IF after paying my
tenner, but no luck)
Reply to
Nick H
Loading thread data ...
From: "andyengine" To: "Nick H" Subject: Re: Villiers W-XII Date: 30 December 2006 19:44
----- Original Message ----- From: "Nick H" Newsgroups: uk.rec.engines.stationary Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2006 6:14 PM Subject: Villiers W-XII
I have a copy of the running instructions, fits an A3 sheet. I will try to get it scanned in the next few days.
Lubrication for the 1.1/2HP depends upon its operating speed, 1000rpm to 1200rpm -1 part oil to 64 parts petrol (1/8 pint to 1 gallon petrol) or for 1200rpm to 1700rpm - 1part oil to 32 parts petrol ( 1/4 pint oil to 1 gallon petrol).
The cam lever (choke) on the top of the carb should be down for starting and lifted to the desired position as the engine warms.
Regards
Andy M
Reply to
andyengine
Large Snip
Hi Nick, I have the spares list on my webpage. see
formatting link
Reply to
Dave Croft
"andyengine" wrote:-
Thanks Andy, that'd be really useful.
Those ratios were mentioned in an SEM article but, even with an engine having rolling element main and big end bearings, I thought the 64:1 pretty mean and doubted its veracity - Stuart Turner used 50 or 48:1 - however, if you are quoting from original literature it must be right!
The lever on mine is (rather roughly) stamped "lower to start when cold" but up or down, it seemed to make very little difference. As I said, it does look somewhat home made, as does the push rod between it and the needle, so may not be positioning the needle correctly.
Reply to
Nick H
"Dave Croft" wrote:-
Cheers Dave. Useful stuff, though some of the illustrations seem to have gone AWOL. I note that a control cam and needle distance piece (presumably the 'push rod' I referred to) would have cost me 7d while a new jet and needle run to 1/6!
Reply to
Nick H
"Nick H" wrote (big snip):-
Just to clarify; I in no way object to the charge for this useful service, my comment was more a reflection on how long it has actually taken me to get round to using it, and to the 'good samaritan' who apparently emailed Paul to complain on my behalf, if I was unhappy about the charge I am quite capable of saying so myself.
Reply to
Nick H
Nick,
Don't worry there is always one, you could not have worded it any better and there was definitely no malice :-))
Martin P
Reply to
campingstoveman
If Paul goes to uk.rec.models.engineering he may find two big Gen sets in the offing :-))
Martin P
Reply to
campingstoveman
Evening all,
Does anyone happen to have any parts for the exhaust box - parts W25 to W30 on the PDF ?
Straw-grasping, I know, but just thought I'd ask.
Thanks.
cheers ... Charles Welch
Reply to
Charles Welch
"Charles Welch" wrote:-
Sorry, no spare 'zorst in my bag of bits - in fact I need to make up something similar for my Scott SE.
Reply to
Nick H
E-mail sent direct with instrustion sheet attached.
Regards
Andy M
Reply to
andyengine
"andyengine" wrote
And received with thanks.
Reply to
Nick H
As a general rule of thimb, I time things 34o BTDC. It seems to be a good compromise .............
Regards,
Kim Siddorn
If quizzes are quizzical, what are tests?
Reply to
Kim Siddorn
i have a water cooled w-xII villiers engine the spark plug gives a very lit tle spark should i get an new spark plug or get the mag re timed or get a n ew ht lead has any one got any clues also it started once and that same day it wouldn't start again has anyone got any tips for repairing it
Reply to
kennedy2

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