Engine keeps derailing

Hi,

I've got a 'James the Red Engine" 2-6-0 tender engine on my layout (keeps the kids happy!!!). However, I've just extended my layout form being an 8 X 1 shelf layout to a 8 x 4 with 2nd radius curves at each end. The 'pony trap' (hope that's the correct phrase) on James now has a real problem running over 2nd radius curves and my new curved points. Derailment always happens in a different place and speed isn't a factor.

It was always fine when it ran up and down the straights on the shelf layout.

All my other loco's are fine except this one. Is there anything I can do to keep the pony trap on the rails?

Check the spacing of the wheels on the pony *truck* (or bogie) against your other locos. If they're wider or narrower, gently adjust them - a thin screwdriver behind the wheel is good for widening. Back-to-back should be 14-14.5mm. If the wheels wobble, adjust them the same way. Check axle lubrication and make sure the bogie pivots freely. If the pony wheels are fouling the loco frame or steps, you may have to file a little away.

I have managed to adjust the wheel spacing. That has helped with the horizontal movement. However, the vertical movement is still pretty bad. The bogie still 'bounces' whenever it's on a curve or curved point.

Is there any load at all on the front wheels?

"Nozza" wrote

It may be possible to add a little extra weight to the top of the pony truck. Try cutting a piece of lead flashing and securing it to the truck with blue-tac initially and see if that has any benefit.

John.

In additon to adding weight as suggested by other posters, there are few other factors to consider, especially since you arev operating James at the lmits of his tolernace for small radii.

Since you are using sectional track, there's a likelihood that several railjoints aren't as smooth as they should be. Use a fine file and very fine emery paper to smoothe the joints. The joints should feel smooth to your finger tips.

Also, make sure the railjoiners (fishplates) are tight and that they hold the rails in vertical alignment. Sometimes it's useful to file a touch away from the inside corners of the rail-ends - but if you overdo it, the wheel may pick the joint even worse.

You may have to fill the joints with epoxy or slivers of plasticard and file/smoothe that, but if you do, you will have to solder a power feeder to every section of track.

A final suggestion: are the wheel treads clean? Even a little bit of gunk built up on the wheels can affect tracking, especially at the limits of tolerance.

I had assumed that the Hornby James/Gordon etc should tolerate 1 radius curves. Their standard Thomas layout consists of 1st and 2nd radius curves, there are no notes on radius restrictions for any of the engines (unlike many of the regular engines).

Mark Thornton (Father of a Gordon fanatic).

I think both Radius 1 and Radius 2 curves are far too tight. I think n

Agreed. I wanted to stick to 48" and above, but have also been forced to accept 36" due to space constraints.

Guy

In message , "Just zis Guy, you know?" writes

No, I think I'll desist just this once.

Well I have about 150' by 30' of rear garden, but the gradient exceeds

Mark Thornton

You could, of course, change levels by means of a helix :-)

You live on Kilnsea Crag?

Not quite. To make parts of the garden relatively level, it has been partly terraced. So from the back door, the first 2 metres is flat, followed by a step up of about 1 metre, then 15 metres flat, then a 4 metre rise in only 3 metres horizontal, then a gradual rise of 1 metre over the next 15 metres, and the remainder is relatively flat as this is the top of the hill. Anyone do garden rack railways? :-)

Mark Thornton

Sorry, that should be Kilnsey in Wharfedale not Kilnsea near Spurn Head.

N gauge Snowdon Mountain Railway?

Guy

Mount Washington Cog Railway?

The message from Mark Thornton contains these words:

A challenge!! A funicular?

"MartinS" wrote

Climbed the crag at the former and got drunk in the latter! ;-)

John.