Plastic card for OO models

Nov 07, 2007 7 Replies
M

Have been asked to confirm recommended thickness of plastic card for scratch building wagon bodies in OO.



Haven't worked in OO for years - In N I use 20 thou for the wagon body - the OO models in question are to be steel bodied minerals, so I would assume 20 thou would be about right (strong enough to withstand handling but thin enough for representing steel).



Anyone care to guess what thickness the OO RTR wagon body sides are ?



The chap in question wants a crack at the LMS Soda Ash wagon and some variations on 16 tonners including the LMS 1945 types.



He is looking at the 'Kit Bashing' section on the GANSG site (

formatting link
) for ideas.



Any thoughts on this welcome.



Regards



Mike


Vote
Twitter Facebook LinkedIn
C

Not an answer to your question, but I hadn't seen this site before. Thanks for a useful link.

Vote
Twitter Facebook LinkedIn
B

I've been scratch-building 4mm wagons in plastic for over thirty years. Where the top edge of the side is visible, as in opens or hoppers, I've used

020", but in vans I tend to use thicker material (.030") with bracing to stop the sides bowing. I'd recommend looking at the article on modelling mineral wagons in Model Rail 105. Good luck Brian
Vote
Twitter Facebook LinkedIn
M

Thanks - I'll pass this on to him

Mike

Vote
Twitter Facebook LinkedIn
G

Normal thicknesses available are .010", .020", .030", .040", .060" ... or 0.25mm, 0.5mm, 0.75mm, 1mm, 1.5mm ...

From my HO experience 0.020" is too thin to represent steel bodied wagons unless they have considerable framing/strengthening structure. .030" will work well so long as care is used in handling. Luckily I model an earlier era when most wagons were wooden bodied so I can use .040" plasticard = 3 1/2" wall thickness as opposed to a prototypical plank thickness around 2 1/2". This thickness allows for plank scribing without the side falling apart :-) A little tapering of the top edge is practical.

Greg.P. NZ

Vote
Twitter Facebook LinkedIn
N

Those sums suggest the OP would be better served with a sheet metal box for the wagon. Then determine how to fix strapping/details, be it soldering on more metal or gluing other materials.

- Nigel

Vote
Twitter Facebook LinkedIn
G

I was tempted to say that but decided to stay on topic :-)

Then determine how to fix strapping/details, be it soldering on

Fixing like to like is always my preference - contraction and expansion of differing materials can be a problem and for me those problems always arise after the model is completed :-(

Greg.P.

Vote
Twitter Facebook LinkedIn
M

Use my technique - moan at Parkside until they produce them!

I buy lots of Tube and HTV hoppers

Vote
Twitter Facebook LinkedIn

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required