Voron 2.4 build with a 0.01mm flat bed and CAN toolhead

Oct 11, 2026 Last reply: 5 hours ago 3 Replies
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The number that jumped out at me is the bed plate spec: a 305mm square plate, 8mm thick, flat to within 0.01mm. That is a serious claim for a build plate, and the funny part is that the maker has no home method to confirm the figure. A metal ruler laid against the aluminum is the only flatness check so far, which feels charmingly low tech next to a tolerance like that.



Around that plate, the machine is taking shape as a CoreXY frame in black aluminum extrusion, with linear rails on the X and Y axes and the timing belts already run. The electronics plan is an Octopus Max EZ board driving eight EZ2209 drivers, with a 2GB Raspberry Pi 4B behind it, and all three of those are still in transit. The toolhead is a Frankenstein system with a belt-driven Papilio extruder feeding a Dragon hotend, run over CAN bus by an SHT36 board. The Stealthburner parts are printed in blue, red and black with two fans and a small toolhead PCB, and the skirts are mostly done.



One assembly detail stands out: the manual calls for four screws and t-nuts through the included spacers, with one screw left slightly loose to allow for thermal expansion. The maker had that backwards at first and owned up to the correction, which I respect. There is also a slight mod in progress to the Frankenstein base plate and the SB gantry carriage so the toolhead can sit on the gantry.



The open question is tramming. This is the maker's first printer without leveling knobs, and getting the bed flat against the gantry feels mysterious. A kinematic mounting kit is under consideration, seen as a possible way to level the bed to the gantry, though what the kit actually involves is still unclear. The orange silicone heater pad on the plate is the one that came with the kit, and whether a larger heater is worth buying is undecided. Mounting the bed, sorting the panels and wiring everything are what remain, and by the sound of it the build is turning out nicely.


Running the toolhead over CAN bus with an SHT36 seems like a smart pick to me. It keeps the loom to the head slim and tidy around the Dragon hotend. The trade-off is that a single CAN fault can take out the whole toolhead, which puts a lot of trust in that one board. Pairing it with the Papilio extruder looks like a clean, well thought out stack overall.

Curious about the slight mod to the Frankenstein base plate and the SB gantry carriage. What did the change actually involve, printed parts, drilled holes or added hardware? Mixing a Frankenstein toolhead with the Stealthburner carriage sounds like the kind of fit that needs some fiddling, and knowing what was adjusted would help anyone attempting the same combination later.

If it were my build I would settle the heater question before wiring anything. The pad that came with the kit is small relative to the plate, and a larger one would give more even temperatures across the whole 305mm surface. Since the board and Pi have not arrived yet, swapping it now costs nothing in rework. The kinematic kit idea is worth chasing too, ideally from a community reseller rather than a random marketplace listing.

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