Blue Point Plasma Cutter YA2225

I obtained a Blue Point (Snap-on) plasma cutter that will not start. When the trigger is depressed, the air comes on but it will not start
an arc. I feed it with a Quincy 2-stage at 80 psi and had replaced all the consumables and made sure I had a good ground attached close to the cutting point. When the trigger is depressed and held down, the unit cuts out after about 5 seconds. I tried contacting Snap-on and was told this is a discontinued model and they did not service it (that really surprised me as I thought Snap-on supported all their products) and was given another vendor to try. So far I've been to Chole, TWSA, Airgas and Lincoln with no resolution. I opened the side panels and watched the inside components as the trigger was depressed. There are several relays in the unit that have a clear plastic case and all of them except one operated when the trigger is depressed. I'm wondering if I have a bad relay but I don't have enough knowledge on if all of them are supposed to work at the same time. I sure could use some help from those with more experience with this older equipment. I suspect there must be some of these units around since Snap-on probably sold more than just one to me. The model is a 115 v, 25 amp YA2225.
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On Sun, 8 Feb 2009 04:59:41 -0800 (PST), snipped-for-privacy@tx.rr.com wrote:

Check to see if you have to press DOWN on the nozzle at the same time as you press the trigger.
Ive a Daytona Mig Pocket 25 that requires this. There is an internal switch in the head that must be closed before it will kick in the arc circuity.
There are two types of starting modes for plasmas
Pilot Arc, which means it will start the arc even when not in contact with the work, and HF contact, which means you must be in contact with the workpiece. Older and cheaper plasmas use this latter style.
Which makes em a bitch when trying to cut expanded metals and other sorts of repeated interupted cuts.
With pilot arc, you simply start the arc and move from bit to bit.
Gunner
"Not so old as to need virgins to excite him, nor old enough to have the patience to teach one."
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snipped-for-privacy@tx.rr.com wrote:

For quite a while, Blue-Point has been imported tools mainly from Taiwan, and a few items were re-badged USA-made stuff from other companies. Snap-On was sold as ALL US produced product.
That is no longer the case as some Snap-On tools are also imports now. It has become hard to tell without close inspection.
At one time LONG ago it was different. Blue-Point were the hand wrench lines and Snap-On was the socket and drive tools line.
That said that particular plasma cutter was made by Cebora. It is the same unit as a Marquette M-12155, Century 82021, Matco PCS21 and a couple others. http://www.weldmart.com/ shows consumables
--
Steve W.

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(...)

http://www.cebora.it/ing/index.htm
This looks like it might be close: http://www.cebora.it/istr/ist823G.pdf
--Winston
--

I'm still waiting for another sublime, transcendent flash of adequacy.


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snipped-for-privacy@tx.rr.com wrote:

I've had a little search but couldn't find much info and no real detail of the torch fitted to your unit. I did however have issues with the torch on my 2nd hand plasma cutter, it was of the type where the air pressure caused retraction of the internal electrode to initiate the plasma. Over time the tip hitting the end of the outer barrel peened the end and closed it down to the point that it pinched the electrode holding rod. Once diagnosed the solution was just to disasssemble the torch head and deburr the end of the barrel that had been peened. Maybe 10 minutes tops when you know the problem but took a few hours to diagnose initially. I think I could sell the technology back to the local welding supplier as I now know he fudged the torch so it work OK at the time of sale, and now being more knowlegable know to trust less than 50% of what he says.
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On Feb 8, 5:31pm, David Billington

does any of these look like the one you worked upon...I think mine is an S30 by observation and I think you are talking about part PF0125 where the issue is
http://www.plang-daichi.com/thai/product-other-welding-accessories_trafimet_plasma.php
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DrO wrote:

http://www.plang-daichi.com/thai/product-other-welding-accessories_trafimet_plasma.php
Exactly the torch I have. Remove the tip cover and unscrew the tip, remove the 3 screws and the collar around the cable then split the handle, lift the internals of the cutter head free of the plastic handle, the flexible braided cable can be released by undoing the screw holding it in and the sliding electrode holder can be removed. I used a small three cornered scraper to remove the peening where the electrode impacted and re-assembled curing the problem. Easy when you know how but wasn't obvious when I started to diagnose it. Hope that helps.
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replying to collinsmk11, greenhands15 wrote:

I know this question is a few years old, but I just obtained this exact plasma, and mine is doing this verbatim. Based on the answers that some of you advised to check, my nozzle/cutting head is not like the ones described. I never seen a response as to what collinsmk11 did to fix it, and I am stumped as to what could be causing the problem. I would like to know if any of you know what I should check?
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replying to greenhands15, dixi4uk wrote:

plasma,
advised
seen a

could
should
My identical machine had the same problem when bought secondhand. I found that increasing the air pressure by 10lbs kicked in an extra relay.
I am currently investigating conversion of the torch to pilot arc. Not getting very far here in UK. A torch I can get easily but adapter kit is proving difficult as UK suppliers say it can not be done. Weld mart in Texas will supply but the postage is cost prohibitive. Any ideas anyone?
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On Sunday, 8 February 2009 12:59:41 UTC, snipped-for-privacy@tx.rr.com wrote:

I have the same machine. In my case turning up the external air pressure re gulator seemed to cure the problem.
I am now investigating replacement of the torch to pilot arc using a Trafim et 25/Alpha3. A torch can be purchased easily but I believe a different int ernal air pressure switch is required and an adapter kit. No one will tell me what air pressure switch I need. Weld mart in Texas do them but the cost of shipping to UK would be cost pro hibitive.
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