Damaged & Rusted Steel Trusses Designed to Span 60'. Repair Or Re-Fabricate?

Is it possible that these beams had been in a fire? Bending and massive rust is typical of this, even if they dont look sooty.

Gunner

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Gunner
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Howdy from Monterrey,

No, Gunner. Perhaps one set of 'em is perfect as far as deformation goes. Most, but not all of the others, have some deformation at the very end of the long narrow taper end where they were bolted together at the peak. These members are (guessing) 34 feet long. They taper down from nearly 2' wide at the eaves to about 10 inches where they bolt together at the top. They look to me like they hit bare ground where they came down on that end. The damage is limited to curling or bending. And in every case said damage is limited to about 3 feet, possibly just a tad more, on that end. I definitely see no signs of dynamic overload. Not that I'm an expert.

The rest of these pieces are straight and true.

The vertical pieces to which the long pieces are bolted, are all straight and true. They seem to be made of somewhat heavier material than the long pieces that hang in the air.

I also have diverse straight I-beams and some purlings. None of these pieces show damage. When I get back to Texas I hope to post some digital pictures.

Vernon

Reply to
Vernon

Vernon, Do a little digging on truss design. The flanges are 5" x 3/16" or so. The webbing is even thinner. Perhaps 1/8" or perhaps 5/32". The bases and corners have some diagonal strengthening in 'em which is somewhat thicker material. I'm estimating 3/8" but they might be 7/16" or even 1/2".

---------------------------------------------------- If your dealing with Square tubing. What i would do is cut out the bent sections and drill a bolt pattern on the members so you can slab cripples on both sides and the top and bottom. If all of them are cut and preped the same way all of the loading moments will also be shared. Bolting the sections on the vertical pieces and meet the purlins in the air and bolt them on.

--------------------------------------------------------- If what you have is bent metal by design (extruded formed) or (like gutter bending from sheet.)structural steel that is bent again. I would not recommend anything for it above your head. While work hardening may have helped to reduce more bending in the same area. the area opposite of the bend is changed mechanically. Compression - Extension type of mechanics.

Steel is not like a tree though and bending does not affected the entire length usually.

The Pacific Narrows Bridge is a variation where bending did affect the entire span. Best wishes no matter what approach you use. But i think JB weld should remain in the tube on this one.

Reply to
P4_Squisher

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