Hobart Mega-Flex 650 RVS does not work in MIG mode

I have this Hobart Mega-Flex 650 RVS, which I am trying to test. It
has a Hobart 25 wire feed, which I actually like a lot.
I rewired this welder to 240v three phase.
The welder works great in stick mode, but refuses to work in MIG
mode.
The welder has two Amphenol receptacles, 19 pin (Wirefeed 1) and 5 pin
(Wirefeed 2). The Hobart 25 is plugged into 5 pin receptacle (Wirefeed
2).
1. Stick mode works great. No problems.
2. There is a Stick/MIG/TIG switch on it. If I switch it to MIG (or
TIG) the voltage indicator drops to zero immediately.
3. Switching Local/Remote output control does not help.
4. Switching Local/Remote voltage sensing does not help.
5. I tried removing the plug and messing with the receptacle, somehow
I was recalling that pins A and B should start welding if shorted. It
did not help.
6. If I press the button on the MIG gun, the wirefeed engages and
starts feeding wire.
I have a feeling that I am missing something simple and the welder is
actually fine. I do not have a manual, which I will order if I do not
get a good answer.
Any ideas? What am I missing?>
Reply to
Ignoramus24189
Loading thread data ...
For one thing, in MIG mode nothing would show on any meter until you were actually welding. In Stick mode there is an open-circuit-voltage that will always show on the meter, but not in MIG. You have not stated the obvious... That you pulled the trigger while the wire fed out and touched the ground clamp. If you didn't do that then try it.
Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler
(snip)
The 19 pin is for the Mega-Con and RVS, the 5 pin is for anything else (RVS needs a separate lead to workpiece).
5 pin should be set to local
5 pin should be set to local
Usually, 2 pins are power (either 24V DC or 115AC depending on unit), and 2 pins close the contactor. I assume the contactor is OK in the machine because it also energizes the mains for stick.
When you pull the trigger you should get from 15 to 50 volts depending on the panel voltage setting.
Is there a separate wire and clip? This may be RVS all the time (no internal voltage sampling) which would require a separate lead along with the ground, or from the panel to the ground lug on the machine (to make it act like a normal mig).
The daughter boards are top front left and covered, are the fasteners scarred up? I think there should be 3 boards with several large wire bundles everything connected?
Matt
Reply to
matthew maguire
ok
OK, thanks
The contactor is fine as I can stick weld all day long.
That is my issue, when I press the button, the voltage needle does not move.
I did not see separate wire, and yes I looked (yesterday).
I only opened the top once, to rewire it for 240v. I do not recall, but I can look.
It is very strange.
Reply to
Ignoramus6679
Even the volt meter?
I thought I did, now I doubt myself a little, I will try tonight and will report on it.
Reply to
Ignoramus6679
Ernie, you were 100% right, there is nothing wrong with this welder and it works just fine. I simply misunderstood what I was testing, and was trying to find open circuit voltage.
Reply to
Ignoramus6679
Ernie is ALWAYS right. :-)
Grant
Reply to
Grant Erwin
I consider him to be the prophet of welding
Reply to
Ignoramus6679
LOL, glad you got it going (saw from above).
BTW, were you pressing the torch trigger or the inch/purge button on the feeder? When I used to press the torch trigger I got volts....
Mine was the Sub-arc option version not the GTAW version...
Matt
Reply to
matthew maguire
Torch trigger. It is very strange to me, I guess it is the correct behavior, but not something that I expected. If I press the trigger, the needle does not move. But the arc would go. What I noticed is that when I did it the first time after starting the welder, the needle would move momentarily, but only once.
Isn't subarc like MIG welding, only bigger?
Reply to
Ignoramus6679
Depends on who is building the machine, but sub-arc usually works better with a more drooping volt/amp curve. Normal CV "mig" volts=X and at short circuit amps=MAX(NOW), the voltage doesn't collapse like CC (stick).
With sub-arc the voltage collapses a bit more and the rate (speed) of amp rise is slowed. The wire is actually sliding into a molten pool a bit before burning off and the arc is extinguished. If set right 3/16" wire will cause solution 1 1/2" to 2" deep.
Above 750 amps sub-arc is usually done CC.
How do you like the mig?
Matt
Reply to
matthew maguire
I got it.
I like it, but the reel of fluxcore that I have (Lincoln wire cage) does not fit the 51mm spindle and does not like to spin in general. So I let a little bit of loose wire to try, but not enough to get any experience. Hopefully early next week I will get a proper reel.
Reply to
Ignoramus6679
You can get an adapter for those redi-reels from lincoln, but to be honest if you are just "puttering" around I would get a 10lb spool of something.
Did you get extra feed rolls for the type 27 feeder?
Matt
Reply to
matthew maguire
I bought a 33 lbs spool, and will sell that redi-reel as I do not need it. The wirefeed comes with 0.035-0.045 rolls, which should work OK.
Reply to
Ignoramus6012
Indeed!!
I cant believe though..that Iggy didnt try to start an arc. At times I consider him an idiot savant.
Gunner
"They couldn't hit an elephant at this dist..." Maj. Gen. John Sedgewick, killed by a sniper in 1864 at the battle of Spotsylvania
Reply to
Gunner Asch
I was trying to be careful and measure everything before starting.
Reply to
Ignoramus6012
With that much potential current out of the thing for the few seconds before it trips your breakers, it's good to be careful.
Reply to
Pete C.
If you have/saved an old empty reel that fits your machine it really isn't all that hard to transfer the wire from one to the other. At least that is what I did to finish off a Lincoln cage wheel on my Millermatic.
Though, I have been called a cheap screw ;-)
Reply to
Leon Fisk
Good point, but I do not have one.
Reply to
Ignoramus14844
I use the core and one flange of a small (2 lb ?) roll to mount the bigger rolls in my baby MIG .
Reply to
Terry Coombs

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.