The traveling nut on my vise broke and I need to weld it back together with high-nickle rods. I have already ground it so as to take more weld filler. However, how do I ensure that the tlreads don't take filler?
Thanks
I believe that most people would braze it instead of welding.
A method the "old fellas" used to use was to mix ground up asbestus and water and make a sort of putty. Fill the threaded hole with this mix and then bake it to drive out all the water. then weld it. Probably won't be absolutely perfect but would probably save you a lot of grinding.
Probably illegal over in your country these day too.
Bruce-in-Bangkok (correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom)
Just wondering. Why? Bruce-in-Bangkok (correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom)
You could probably do the same sort of thing with pearlite or vermiculite and waterglass. Might be harder to get out later. Or get some furnace cement at the hardware store. Pretty sure that furnace cement would be hard to get out afterwards.
=20 Dan
having the rod which I assume has square threads on it in the hole acting as a chill bar would help lots. Being able to cut threads on a copper rod would be the best you could hope for. depends on how much extra room is in the vice for a fillet but perhaps you shouldn't have cut a vee. If you knock off all the flux and polish the welding rod it might be possible to tig it. My experience with cast iron was that that didn't work too well there was too much stuff coming out but my pieces were pretty big. If you don't get a lot of contamination in a tig arc then you could use a bronze rod which is tig compatible not the stuff for oxy acetylene which fumes.
Fran
It's probably better to braze it. Unless the lathe is huge, the nut will be small enough so that you can heat it up to brazing temperature - silver solder will do as well.
To prevent braze wetting the threads, use typewriter correction fluid. The white stuff, comes in small bottles, and smells like kids would want to sniff it. Tippex is one brand here in the UK.
It's titanium dioxide in an organic binder - the binder burns off, but the TiO2 stays there. Haven't tried this at welding temps, but it works fine for brazing. Just brush it off afterwards.
-- Peter Fairbrother
"Peter Fairbrother" wrote: To prevent braze wetting the threads, use typewriter correction fluid.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ A popular US brand is White-out. I stopped using it because it was messing up my computer screen.
Okay, fellows. Lots of good suggestions - as usual.
I think I will 'whiteout' the threads of the nut ans screw an insert the screw and weld.
If not successful, I will braze it.
Again, THANKS!
j/b
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