Low power arc weld

I have one of those $70 - 70 amp arc welders. It works well with 1/16" e-6013 sticks(rated 35-50 amp), but not so well with 3/32" e-6011 sticks. The 6011s are rated for 40-85 amps.

I'm an untrained rookie trying to weld some plated chain to galvanized posts. Will gladly buy 5 lbs of 1/16" e-6011 online if I think it would make a stronger weld than what I've been doing with the e-6013. I don't have the skills to work the 3/32" and don't have access to a more powerful welder.

Does any one know of a hardware store, builder's supply, or welding shop in San Diego that might have 1/16" 6011? It should be one of the lowest current sticks available. Is it good stuff?

Reply to
Stumpy
Loading thread data ...

I strongly recommend to get a better welder, such as a Lincoln buzzbox at the minimum.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus25949

Welcome to welding 101. The graduating point to 102 is when you outgrow your equipment. And you have done so. Your skill level exceeds your equipment, and now you need bigger equipment. Next time, overbuy and grow into it.

1/16" rod isn't good for many things. The real welding world starts at 3/32" rods. If your machine won't even do those, you can't weld much effectively. Go look for at least an AC DC Lincoln 225, or more if your budget can take it.

Welcome to the welding club. You can never have too many welders.

Steve

Reply to
Steve B

How many welds? If only a few, try grinding all the plating and galvanizing off around where the welds will be. If hundreds, get a better welder as others have suggested.

Reply to
William Bagwell

If hundreds of galvanized items are being talked about, weld fume fever would be an issue. Another important thing a newbie is not considering.

Steve

Reply to
Steve B

I'm probably one of those guys that will always be riding the moped instead of the Cadillac. Would like to pursue making what I've got work better. As far as I can tell I'm plugged into a 15 amp 120v wall outlet and have not had any electric problems. Will never be a pro like many of the engineering guys here. Was hoping for some confirmation that 1/16" 6011 might be stronger than what I have accomplished so far with 1/16" 6013.

I know it is not a standard stick, but must be available somewhere.

Reply to
Stumpy

Good advice!

Reply to
Stumpy

the Cadillac.

I'm plugged into a 15

pro like many of the

be stronger than

You can get them at Amazon. There are several vendors selling these.

Search on E6011. You might want to get some 3/32" also...........Paul

Example: Free shipping if you buy 4 packs. (over $25)

formatting link

Reply to
Packratpaul

I ordered the last one in stock from Hobart. Hot Max had some complaints.

formatting link
Odd that they don't even list the 1/16" 6011

Reply to
Stumpy

I know you're right ... I'm pretty stubborn and will keep banging until I must give in.

Would have to up-grade the wiring in my work area first. Not just the welder.

Reply to
Stumpy

As others have mentioned, to get a better weld and avoid issues with fumes,= you'd do best to sand, brush, or grind off the plating and galvanized firs= t.

As to 1/16" rods that work well, I like 7014. Any 60xx series rod has a no= minal strength of 60,000psi. The 70xx has a 70,000 psi rating. But I like= the 7014 because it's easier for me to get a good weld, particularly in th= e 1/16" size. I think that's likely to be better measure for you than simp= ly the theoretical maximum strength of the filler metal.

As to where to find it, I've gotten some in TSC, a Sears dedicated hardware= store, and can sometimes even find it in Walmart (CH, Campbell-Hausfeld br= and).

The caveat is I'm using this in a 220v machine, even if it is turned almost= all the way down.

You might try grabbing a package and seeing if it works with your machine..= .after you've ground the coating off where your weld will go.

--Glenn Lyford

Reply to
Glenn Lyford

you'd do best to sand, brush, or grind off the plating and galvanized first.

nominal strength of 60,000psi. The 70xx has a 70,000 psi rating. But I like the 7014 because it's easier for me to get a good weld, particularly in the

1/16" size. I think that's likely to be better measure for you than simply the theoretical maximum strength of the filler metal.

store, and can sometimes even find it in Walmart (CH, Campbell-Hausfeld brand).

the way down.

machine...after you've ground the coating off where your weld will go.

7014 runs well on AC and looks better than 6013 or 6011 too.
Reply to
etpm

As others have mentioned, to get a better weld and avoid issues with fumes, you'd do best to sand, brush, or grind off the plating and galvanized first.

As to 1/16" rods that work well, I like 7014. Any 60xx series rod has a nominal strength of 60,000psi. The 70xx has a 70,000 psi rating. But I like the 7014 because it's easier for me to get a good weld, particularly in the 1/16" size. I think that's likely to be better measure for you than simply the theoretical maximum strength of the filler metal.

As to where to find it, I've gotten some in TSC, a Sears dedicated hardware store, and can sometimes even find it in Walmart (CH, Campbell-Hausfeld brand).

The caveat is I'm using this in a 220v machine, even if it is turned almost all the way down.

You might try grabbing a package and seeing if it works with your machine...after you've ground the coating off where your weld will go.

--Glenn Lyford

---------------------------------------------------------------

Thanks for advice. The 6011 is "in the mail". If it doesn't do the trick - I'll look for some 7014.

The Hobart chart

formatting link
made it look like a higher current stick.

Reply to
Stumpy

So where do you live? There might be someone close to you that has a better welder they would let you use.

Dan

Reply to
dcaster

So where do you live? There might be someone close to you that has a better welder they would let you use.

Dan

--------------------------------------------

No thanks. I'm in San Diego and I bet there are half a dozen better machines down my street, but the goal is to be able to accomplish a few things on my own. The 6013 is easy to use - just not very strong on this project.

Reply to
Stumpy

You are not close to me, I am on the other coast. But here is an idea, how about rewiring a Microwave oven transformer and putting it is parallel with your welder to up the current rating. Microwave oven transformers can be gotten free, but the wire for a new secondary will probably have to be bought. Lots of articles on how to make a welder from microwave oven transformers .

Dan

Reply to
dcaster

You are not close to me, I am on the other coast. But here is an idea, how about rewiring a Microwave oven transformer and putting it is parallel with your welder to up the current rating. Microwave oven transformers can be gotten free, but the wire for a new secondary will probably have to be bought. Lots of articles on how to make a welder from microwave oven transformers .

Dan

------------------------------------------

That sounds like a lot of fun, but I'd probably electrocute myself before getting it to work. Underwriters Laboratory wouldn't like my workshop.

Reply to
Stumpy

Stumpy, With cheap shit junk welders, it is very easy to make welds that have no fusion.

At least do yourself a favor and test your welds prior to placing them in service. Hit them with a hammer, for example.

I just bought a hydraulic press, to which some idiot tried to weld something. I could break off the welds by hand. It looked like a bird pooped there.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus302

That's my problem. I can break the weld with a light tap from a 16oz hammer. That's why I stopped and have ordered a different type of rod. It may be poor surface prep, problems between dissimilar metals, or just inexperienced workmanship. I'm trying to be methodical and solve this fusion problem.

If I still can't get it with the 6011, then I'll watch more U-Tube or visit a local shop and ask some questions. This is not a paying job for me, I'm just bimbling. I'll check back here after I've tried something new.

Reply to
Stumpy

For fusion, you need to melt

1) The electrode 2) Metal on one side of the joint 3) Metal on the other side of the joint.

Without enough heat input, 2 and 3 may not melt, resulting in no fusion. Enough heat input is only possible with a welder that is big enough to produce enough heat.

Practicing is a great idea.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus302

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.