I would like to make a fuel tank to hole diesel fuel. I was thinking of making a tank with dimensions of 2x2x1 feet, from something like 12 gauge mild steel. I would TIG weld it and add some feet to it so that it does not touch the ground with the bottom (and would be easier to pick up with a hand truck). My question is, basically, what am I missing, if anything. Would the 2x2 feet sides need any reinforcement (they would be vertical). Thanks
So about 4 cu. ft., or 30 gallons. Wouldn't finding a 33 gallon drum (metal or plastic) be simpler? How about a rack to hold a half-dozen fuel cans? Then you wouldn't need a pump to transfer fuel or a handtruck to move it...
I had some sort of animal, maybe a raccoon, who chewed through a plastic gas can. No shit. So I would be reluctant to have a big plastic tank for diesel fuel, for environmental reasons. Dealing with
28 gallons of diesel spilled into my yard would not be very pleasant.
I called our local steel supplier, and the 14 gauge steel for that tank would be $50 plus tax. Add to this maybe 30 dollars in pipe fittings (stainless fill cap, fuel supply, fuel return, fuel dumping nipple with cap) Not really that much and it will be a good TIG project. I will be picking that steel up tomorrow.
Yes, I was thinking about doing the same thing, and I have a feeling that I do not even need to drill anything.
My other question is that I want to add a lifting eye to it, but I want to make sure that I avoid unnecessary strains when lifting. So, my thinking went, add two steel angles on top, going lengthwise and formig and upside town T. _|_ and then I will add a lifting eye to that.
Jim, I am sure that it will cost less, but I finally want to have nice stuff, like a tank of the size that I like, of the shape I like, without wire screening around it. Should be a good welding project too.
Have built several . I suggest that you incorporate a sump - a portion of the bottom that is a bit lower then the main tank with a drain valve. Most tanks collect water in more or less quantities and while the fuel protects the main tank from rust unless you drain the condensate occasionally it will cause rust. Additionally there is an algae that grows at the intersection of the oil and water and is a problem in tanks that store fuel for long periods - see the boating groups for comments.
Just thinking - is there a out of spec (old) Propane tank that can be converted with a pump and filter ? I assume you will filter for rust and gunk anyway. Might be able to find a 30 gallon or 100 gallon one.
Mart> >> So about 4 cu. ft., or 30 gallons. Wouldn't finding a 33 gallon drum
Iggy, I don't know squat about fuel tanks, but here's my two cents anyway.
Put some crossbraces in it so it doesn't bulge when full. Liquids have a lot of lateral pressure. Slope it to the intake, and put the intake forward so when sitting still or accelerating, the pickup can still suck fuel. If you put crossbraces in there, even small ones, your tank is going to look square after a few years instead of a blood corpuscle. I'm sure there's other tips as to where to put the spout, and stuff, but just think ahead of how you fuel the tank, and don't put the input in a stupid spot where you have to climb over or go to the opposite side. Put it on the same side you have your current filler. And lastly, think of hold downs. They weigh a lot, and I have seen mondo attachments with turnbuckles on them, and thought they were overkill, but owners told me tales of collision where the tanks were the only things in the bed that stayed put.
It ain't some little gas can in the bed. It's a fuel cell. Even think of the material under it supporting it. How long is that going to last? How is it attatched? Even with feet under there, think of what would happen in a panic stop. Feet have to be bolted on. Turnbuckes make it a little easier to put it in there.
Always figure worst case scenario. Chances are, it's going to happen.
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