Making a fuel tank

I would like to make a fuel tank to hole diesel fuel. I was thinking of making a tank with dimensions of 2x2x1 feet, from something like 12 gauge mild steel. I would TIG weld it and add some feet to it so that it does not touch the ground with the bottom (and would be easier to pick up with a hand truck). My question is, basically, what am I missing, if anything. Would the 2x2 feet sides need any reinforcement (they would be vertical). Thanks

Reply to
Ignoramus17163
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So about 4 cu. ft., or 30 gallons. Wouldn't finding a 33 gallon drum (metal or plastic) be simpler? How about a rack to hold a half-dozen fuel cans? Then you wouldn't need a pump to transfer fuel or a handtruck to move it...

--Glenn Lyford

Reply to
Glenn Lyford

I had some sort of animal, maybe a raccoon, who chewed through a plastic gas can. No shit. So I would be reluctant to have a big plastic tank for diesel fuel, for environmental reasons. Dealing with

28 gallons of diesel spilled into my yard would not be very pleasant.

I called our local steel supplier, and the 14 gauge steel for that tank would be $50 plus tax. Add to this maybe 30 dollars in pipe fittings (stainless fill cap, fuel supply, fuel return, fuel dumping nipple with cap) Not really that much and it will be a good TIG project. I will be picking that steel up tomorrow.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus17163

You should be fine. But if you want to be certain, drill a 5/16" hole in the center of the 2x2 sides, and weld a 5/16" tie rod between them.

Reply to
Tim

Yes, I was thinking about doing the same thing, and I have a feeling that I do not even need to drill anything.

My other question is that I want to add a lifting eye to it, but I want to make sure that I avoid unnecessary strains when lifting. So, my thinking went, add two steel angles on top, going lengthwise and formig and upside town T. _|_ and then I will add a lifting eye to that.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus17163

For that matter, 55 gallon drums aren't too bad when they're full of fuel, and it's a nice common size.

(little drums are cuter, though).

Reply to
Tim Wescott

So get a metal one. Betcha can find one for less than $50.

Reply to
Tim Wescott

How much would a roll of steel wire screening cost?

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

Jim, I am sure that it will cost less, but I finally want to have nice stuff, like a tank of the size that I like, of the shape I like, without wire screening around it. Should be a good welding project too.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus17163

Tanks used to be made by soldering the joints. It still works.

Reply to
Stupendous Man

Reply to
RoyJ

Reply to
RoyJ

Have built several . I suggest that you incorporate a sump - a portion of the bottom that is a bit lower then the main tank with a drain valve. Most tanks collect water in more or less quantities and while the fuel protects the main tank from rust unless you drain the condensate occasionally it will cause rust. Additionally there is an algae that grows at the intersection of the oil and water and is a problem in tanks that store fuel for long periods - see the boating groups for comments.

Cheers,

Bruce in Bangkok (bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

Reply to
Bruce in Bangkok

I will definitely do that.

Reply to
Ignoramus17163

Just thinking - is there a out of spec (old) Propane tank that can be converted with a pump and filter ? I assume you will filter for rust and gunk anyway. Might be able to find a 30 gallon or 100 gallon one.

Mart> >> So about 4 cu. ft., or 30 gallons. Wouldn't finding a 33 gallon drum

Reply to
Martin H. Eastburn

Why, if I can make one inexpensively. I do hope that the total cost, with steel, filler and fittings to be slightly above $100.

i

Reply to
Ignoramus17163

Iggy, I don't know squat about fuel tanks, but here's my two cents anyway.

Put some crossbraces in it so it doesn't bulge when full. Liquids have a lot of lateral pressure. Slope it to the intake, and put the intake forward so when sitting still or accelerating, the pickup can still suck fuel. If you put crossbraces in there, even small ones, your tank is going to look square after a few years instead of a blood corpuscle. I'm sure there's other tips as to where to put the spout, and stuff, but just think ahead of how you fuel the tank, and don't put the input in a stupid spot where you have to climb over or go to the opposite side. Put it on the same side you have your current filler. And lastly, think of hold downs. They weigh a lot, and I have seen mondo attachments with turnbuckles on them, and thought they were overkill, but owners told me tales of collision where the tanks were the only things in the bed that stayed put.

It ain't some little gas can in the bed. It's a fuel cell. Even think of the material under it supporting it. How long is that going to last? How is it attatched? Even with feet under there, think of what would happen in a panic stop. Feet have to be bolted on. Turnbuckes make it a little easier to put it in there.

Always figure worst case scenario. Chances are, it's going to happen.

HTH

Steve

Reply to
SteveB

Critters go through plastic faster than my ex wife went through money.

Reply to
SteveB

"Pad eyes" are a good thing. Just a D shaped thing with a hole in it to put a shackle pin through.

Steve

Reply to
SteveB

And slosh like crazy when they are not full. And spew fuel all over.

Reply to
SteveB

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