Making a fuel tank

I'd weld on an oil drum bung or pipe fitting that accepts a drum pump, and maybe wheels and a handle. Personally I would use larger wheels than the portable refill tanks the car dealers have, so it would roll better on dirt.

jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins
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Hunh. I was thinking he wanted to store fuel for his generator, and wanted something he could stick under his sound/weather enclosure.

Though he no doubt intends to put it in the truck to fill it, so many of your points may still apply, and who knows, perhaps he had something multi-purpose in mind.

--Glenn

Reply to
Glenn Lyford

Here's a somewhat sad followup. Upon showing up at the steel supplier, they told me that the $50 quote was a "clerical error" and they now want over $100 for the stuff. Seemed like a bait and switch to me, so I said I will think about it and left.

I have two steel panels 3x4 feet or so, which I hope will be enough to build the tank of the approximate size I want. I will plasma cut them and make a tank from that.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus28528

Kinda sounds like they quoted you the contractor/trade price, then realized you were paying retail.

With steel that size, it sounds like you could make one 1'x2'x3', with two 1x1 pieces for baffles... --Glenn Lyford

Reply to
Glenn Lyford

It will be stationary, it is a tank for my generator and I am not planning on taking it anywhere on a regular basis. I have eight steel fuel cans with diesel fuel, which I can take to gas stations for refilling. I would rarely need to move that tank.

I also have a 100 gallon diesel "day tank" for sale, it is too big for that area.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus28528

Sorry I got kattywampus there, but I ASS-U-MED it was for a truck. Some of the things still apply. Put at least two crossmembers in each direction in there to keep it from ballooning out. Can be as simple as flat bar or rod. Make a little slope on the bottom so it will suck all the fuel out.

Think ahead. Are you ever going to move it? No? Remember, plans change. I'd put a couple of pad eyes on it just in case. Keep it off the ground to keep from corroding. Think ahead when placing the fill spout. Even a simple tank can have some nuances, and when it's all done, it's a booger to say, "Darn, I shoulda ............." If it's diesel, I'd put a filter in line or a water trap.

Steve

Reply to
SteveB

Yep, I will do exactly all of the above.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus28528

How strong will it be with the 14 ga vs 1/4 or 3/8" tank wall I know you can buy a 30 gallon for far less than $100 and it is brand new. The only issue is putting in the fittings other than the one it has.

Mart> >> Just thinking - is there a out of spec (old) Propane tank that can

Reply to
Martin H. Eastburn

"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote: (clip) Most tanks collect water in more or less quantities and while

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ If you read the thread started by Jimmie, on repairing a gas tank, you will get a good example of what can happen. I suggest you make the water sump in the form of a little "well," so the rusting will be confined to a small area, and not feathering out to the whole tank bottom. When it eventually rusts, you cut the bottom of the well off and weld on a new one, and you know you have solid material to weld to.

Reply to
Leo Lichtman

or a large pipe cap.

Reply to
Tim

"Tim" wrote: or a large pipe cap. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ If it doesn't stick down too far--remember you have to weld on a nipple long enough to leave clearance between the cap and the bottom of the tank when you tighten it.

Reply to
Leo Lichtman

True, but for a stationary tank the size piggy describes, it shouldn't be a problem. I drilled and tapped the pipe cap in mine for the supply line. It's the lowest point in the system on my tank.

Reply to
Tim

Sorry about the piggy, iggy,, the spell checker got me.

Reply to
Tim

I was kind of wondering...

p
Reply to
Ignoramus10776

The cap and nipple are going to rust, too. Maybe even rust together making them impossible to torque off..........

Reply to
SteveB

A 2" pipe cap leaves just enough reservoir to contain any water not making it over and in to the supply fitting, without coming near the nipple. It would not only take forever to rust through, but be easy to change as well.

You also have the option of grinding or counter boring the supply fitting flush with the cap surface, in which case NO water would ever collect, it would always pass through to the service trap or filter.

As for sealing the 2" threads, a lot of corrosion free solutions are available.

Reply to
Tim

Another option is to coat the interior of the tank so you don't have fuel/water in contact with the metal.

Reply to
Pete C.

I coat every tank i make or repair with Red Kote.

Reply to
Stupendous Man

Which leaves the algae problem.

I had assumed that the original poster intended the tank for an emergency generator which made it seem that the fuel would be sitting in the tank for long periods of time and if here is any water that collects in the bottom it is almost assured that there will be some algae growth. Cheers,

Bruce in Bangkok (bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

Reply to
Bruce in Bangkok

Still one less problem to fight.

That's what the Diesel Sta-Bil is for.

Reply to
Pete C.

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