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Need help with broken bandsaw base.

Sometimes I amaze myself at my stupidity and lack of forethought.

I've managed to break the base casting of my Jet 4x6" bandsaw. I was moving it by lifting the front end (it has wheels on the back). The top arm swung open and the inertia of it all pulled the handle out of my hand. The next thing I know it's laying on its side on the floor in more pieces than there should be. The base casting has ears (are they call trunnions?) where the hinge pin goes through, they are both broken off.

I've heard people talk about welding or brazing castings but they also say the part has to be preheated. I have no way to preheat such a large casting. No way will it fit in the kitchen oven.

I have a Syncro 250 TIG machine and an oxygen/acetylene set. What are my options? One thought I had was to grind off the remainder of the ears and machine a new set and bolt them on if I can't braze or weld it back together.

I appreciate the vast amount of knowledge on this NG. Thanks for any help.

Lane

Reply to
Lane
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That chintzy and probably radioactive cast iron is not going to braze or weld up very well anyway.

Make up a steel plate with the new ears welded on it and bolt the plate to the base.

While your at it, weld up a subframe with wheels on it for the saw. I did that for my 4x6 and it makes the saw way nicer to move around and use. Mines just a square tube frame that fits around the outside of the base of the bad joke sheetmetal "stand" that comes with the saw, with casters on it.

Or you could duct tape the saw back together and put it on ebay stating "partially dissassembled".

Good luck-

Paul T.

Reply to
Paul T.

On Fri, 11 Jun 2004 15:28:51 -0700, Lane wrote (in message ):

Check your Email for a pic of my solution.

Reply to
Roger Hull

Yup, that is what I'm doing. Making a plate with bosses to bolt on top of the casting. Thanks for the pic. Lane

Reply to
Lane

"Lane" wrote (clip) I've heard people talk about welding or brazing castings but they also say the part has to be preheated. (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Preheating and post-cooling are important if the piece can develop stresses due to thermal expansion/contraction. I have successfully arc welded cast iron, using nickel rod, without any special precautions. If you are welding on a lug, which is free to contract without stress as it cools, go for it.

I am not a skilled welder, so I will leave the rest to the people who know more that I do, but I will add that peening the weld as it cools relieves stresses and helps prevent cracking.

Reply to
Leo Lichtman

You could preheat with a rosebud tip on the torch, next TIG Weld using pure Nickle rod, and allow to slow cool under a pile of powdered lime

I can give you a bunch of pure nickle TIG rod in 1/16" or 3/32"

The other option is to simple bend or weld up a new steel pivot point and bolt it to the original casting.

I know exactly what you mean about the saw flipping over.

I made a new base for mine back when I had a 4x6 saw. Mine had really BIG wheels below the motor and a handle at the other end so you just lifted it up and rolled it around.

I had a bungee cord on the handle to hold down the swing arm so it couldn't do the fatal backflip when moving it around.

Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler

Thanks for the offer Ernie.

Yup, I'm going to make some kind of tie down too. Even if it is just a bungee cord. I'm making a steel plate to bolt on. I don't want to bother with welding the cast base. I just know I'd end up screwing that up too then having to buy one. Better safe than sorry on this. I'll practice welding cast on something else someday before I try it on something important.

Lane

Reply to
Lane

Scrap it.

I'll sell you mine plus 6 new carbon blades for $75.

You pay shipping. Or else come to my garage sale next month.

Reply to
Wild Turkey

I'll pass and let someone else have the good deal at your garage sale. I fixed mine for free, just my labor and a little bit of electricity and welding rod.

Lane

Reply to
Lane

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