If you have a CV setting, you don't need a (transformer or power supply) at all - the RW will run right off the CV, just as if it was on batteries.
As for the dial, put an o-ring under it to friction it up.
If you have a CV setting, you don't need a (transformer or power supply) at all - the RW will run right off the CV, just as if it was on batteries.
As for the dial, put an o-ring under it to friction it up.
I learned that I could operate the RW on CV from one of the posts in this thread. When I was told that, I no longer cared about that darned adapter! :)
Thanks for the o-r>
As for the tip being hot all the time, if your welder has a remote control port and you're too cheap to buy the official remote control, the group archives have the info you need to put a switch on it (and a potentiometer to remote the main current/voltage dial as well, if you like) for _much_ less money than the factory version (the connector or wire will be the most expensive part.) A very simple soldering project.
Just like Ready Welder, Ernie: I signed up to get an account on their forum days ago.
So far, all I've received is this note: "Your account is currently inactive, the administrator of the board will need to activate it before you can log in. You will receive another email when this has occurred."
Maybe >
This group, not a readywelder group or forum or whatever. The braindead yet still beats nothing Google replacement for dejanews (which was nice.) Which, as I recall, you need to access from somewhere other than work - drop by the local library, perhaps. Google advanced groups search, as I recall you have a Lincoln - there's more about Miller remotes, and then some stuff about Lincoln remotes showed up as well.
If you have a 6-pin Amphenol connector for remote control, the pins all have letters - ABCDEF:
ABC are remote control, one end of potentiometer, wiper, other end of potentiometer, respectively. Some debate on Linear .vs. Log pot. Either
5K or 10K ohm, full output is B at the A end of the pot.DE are contactor, closing the switch turns welding on, opening it turns welding off, and it need not be a hefty switch (only sending a control signal).
F is ground.
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