Repairing stainless cooking dish

I use those Al pans with scratched TFE that are not nice in the kitchen in the shop. Great sorting trays. I have a square tray with two loop handles that is a neat one.

My wife uses a small stainless pot when a weld broke on it - bolt welded... To water plants with - dip in the big bucket and spread it around. Use it to be handy for weed pickup....

This stainless stuff is handy outside. And in the shop.

Mart> Curt Welch wrote:

Reply to
Martin H. Eastburn
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All high temp silver solder will work. ( I am talking about silver brazing alloys, not low temperature solder that contains silver. ) But some will work better than others. The alloys that are especially good for stainless contain a few percentages of Nickel. They wet the stainless more easily.

If the repair was on the inside of the pot, I would say to stay away from the silver brazing alloys that contain Cadmium. You won't find these in new stock, but could find some on ebay.

A little looking on the internet will come up with lots of information.

Dan

Reply to
dcaster

My favorite bondo board used to be a 24 quart pot lid! Ice cube trays for small parts. One of my parts cleaners is a pot with a steamer rack in it. Many of them are either orphaned items or ones that have been replaced by better quality.

I buy some of them at the dollar stores just because they are handy.

I even have used them for more interesting things. The furnace on the trailer had a standard stack with exhaust in the middle and the outer shell being air intake. The original cover rotted off and a new one was ridiculous. Found a nice stainless crab pot in a thrift store, cut it down for a new upper cover and used the cut off section with a section of stainless sheet tig'd on for the lower.

Reply to
Steve W.

Ernie, can you recommend a cadmium-free silver solder and flux so I can re-join my 10" SS Chef's knife?

Are these what I want?

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Thanks

--Winston

Reply to
Winston

I just wish they left more offerings of roast meat before heading back down the mountain.

I do find it puzzling when I go to answer a question, and find somebody already answered it with a quote from me.

Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler

That is high temp solder which would work on the cooking pot, but for a knife you want something that flows at a lower temperature or you will trash the heat treat on your blade.

For knives we usually use what are called "silver bearing" solders, or tin solders with some added silver for strength.

They usually flow below 350 degF

They can normally be found at hardware stores, in a package with some flux.

Real silver solder is much stronger but flows at a much higher temp, like 1000 - 1200 degF

Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler

If you have a TIG you could try TIG brazing with silicon bronze filer. It melts at half the amps of SS, so it works like high temps solder, but doesn't require any flux. The bronze will tarnish, but if it is outside the pan, no problem. The nice bit about TIG brazing on stainless steel, is if you get your amps low enough you won't burn the backside of the stainless steel.

I have used it a lot for architectural SS panels, and light fixture parts, that needed mounting hardware on the backside, but couldn't show any distortion on the front side.

Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler

When you are Da Welding Wizard...all bow before you.

How do you like your complementary copy of the Welding Bible, Starring Ernie Leimkuhler, as the Great One?

You did...did get your genuine gold finshed, hand rubbed pigskin copy, printed on fireproof parchment with flame resistant tassles.....right?

Gunner

Reply to
Gunner Asch

I apologize.

--Winston

Reply to
Winston

I have TIG and some silicon bronze filler.

I'll try the silver solder first however when it gets here - I suspect it will look nicer.

What about O/A with the silicon bronze filler? Better or worse then TIG for any reason? Does it need flux if I braze with O/A for this application with stainless?

Reply to
Curt Welch

I think I misplaced it under all the chalices and gold platters. I am sure it is there somewhere...

Again...more roast beast, less shiny stuff.

Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler

I gas welded a lot of stainless steel in my early years, before I owned my first TIG, and it does work, but you get horrendous heat distortion, and if you keep it molten too long it will crack like crazy due to chromium carbide formation.

Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler

Noted and passed on to the faithful!!

Respects,

Gunner

Reply to
Gunner Asch

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