Repairing stainless cooking dish



I gas welded a lot of stainless steel in my early years, before I owned my first TIG, and it does work, but you get horrendous heat distortion, and if you keep it molten too long it will crack like crazy due to chromium carbide formation.

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I would vote for silver soldering the handle back on.

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On Sun, 30 May 2010 01:31:06 -0700, Ernie Leimkuhler
What kind does one use for that sort of stainless steel?
Gunner

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All high temp silver solder will work. ( I am talking about silver brazing alloys, not low temperature solder that contains silver. ) But some will work better than others. The alloys that are especially good for stainless contain a few percentages of Nickel. They wet the stainless more easily.
If the repair was on the inside of the pot, I would say to stay away from the silver brazing alloys that contain Cadmium. You won't find these in new stock, but could find some on ebay.
A little looking on the internet will come up with lots of information.
Dan
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Ernie Leimkuhler wrote:

The question's been asked, the hands are waving & answers being shouted. Ernie speaks and the hands come down, the shouting stops, and people drift away. The answer's been given.
Bob
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On Mon, 31 May 2010 17:30:14 -0400, Bob Engelhardt

I wonder what its like inside Ernies head what that happens?
Or is he simply too busy doiing "real stuff" to notice the swarms of people all bowing before him?
<G>
Gunner
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I just wish they left more offerings of roast meat before heading back down the mountain.
I do find it puzzling when I go to answer a question, and find somebody already answered it with a quote from me.
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On Tue, 01 Jun 2010 21:10:48 -0700, Ernie Leimkuhler

When you are Da Welding Wizard...all bow before you.
How do you like your complementary copy of the Welding Bible, Starring Ernie Leimkuhler, as the Great One?
You did...did get your genuine gold finshed, hand rubbed pigskin copy, printed on fireproof parchment with flame resistant tassles.....right?
Gunner
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I think I misplaced it under all the chalices and gold platters. I am sure it is there somewhere...
Again...more roast beast, less shiny stuff.
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On Fri, 04 Jun 2010 00:33:25 -0700, Ernie Leimkuhler

Noted and passed on to the faithful!!
Respects,
Gunner
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On 6/1/2010 9:10 PM, Ernie Leimkuhler wrote:

I apologize.
--Winston
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On 5/30/2010 1:31 AM, Ernie Leimkuhler wrote:

Ernie, can you recommend a cadmium-free silver solder and flux so I can re-join my 10" SS Chef's knife?
Are these what I want? http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pidX3/Product/ULTRA_FLUX_reg_ http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid $11/sku/355_Silver_Solder_1_32__Round_Wire_1oz_28_3g__20ft_609_6cm_
Thanks
--Winston
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That is high temp solder which would work on the cooking pot, but for a knife you want something that flows at a lower temperature or you will trash the heat treat on your blade.
For knives we usually use what are called "silver bearing" solders, or tin solders with some added silver for strength.
They usually flow below 350 degF
They can normally be found at hardware stores, in a package with some flux.
Real silver solder is much stronger but flows at a much higher temp, like 1000 - 1200 degF
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