Report on cold-cut blade performance (or making a metal fence)

Well, after seeing posts here about the new cold-cut blades available for regular "Skil Saws" I checked the net and found a local retailer with a good price. I ended up buying a Tenryu PRF-18548BW for $45USD out the door. I intended to use it on my SkilSaw model 77. I still wondered if the blade would really cut and not self-destruct or burn up the saw. The store was nice enough to have a Makita 14" Cold Cut saw for demonstration and let me try it out even though I was buying a totally different blade. The Makita cut through 1" X 2" scrap bar like butter. It was quick (1-2 second cut) and smooth and cold.

I was preparing for a residential metal fence project and still in the planning stages so the blade sat in my garage for 2 months. Well, the now with the plans firmly in my head, the metal delivered and sitting in the driveway, I was ready to start cutting. I prepared the set up to make the 200 or so vertical bars that will cover the fence rails. They started out as 20ft long, 3/4 square, 1/16 thick. I put 40 of them on my welding table and squared them out, measured for the cut and clamped a straight 2X4 on the right spot to use as a fence for the SkilSaw to ride against. I ended up making five cuts out of the 20-footers giving me 200 48" long bars.

The cutting ability of the Tenryu blade is absolutely amazing. It went through the row of 40 bars with no problem at all. I estimate the bars were dropping at about 2 per second. The noise was even surprising. It was about as loud as the SkilSaw when cutting wood. The process does throw HOT chips in every direction although mostly to the front. I was sure to have safety glasses on and warn the onlookers before making any cuts. After making all 200 bars, I examined the blade for damage. There were a few chipped teeth. Maybe 3 or 4 out of 48 total. I was dismayed at first but realized I was still miles ahead of any other cutting method available to me plus had the convenience of a hand held saw. Overall I give it an 8 or a 9. Given the fact that one should never give a perfect score, at least on planet earth, and also there were a few chipped teeth.

Reply to
Zorro
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The EVO saw that is made for metal cutting was on sale for 250 recently at Harbor Freight (reg 300)

Reply to
ATP

The EVO saw that is made for metal cutting was on sale for 250 recently at Harbor Freight (reg 300)

I guess I got a good deal then. At HF's price I could get 5 of the Tenryus even though I can tell by the HF price it is probably a 14" blade.

7 1/4" will cut about 3 1/4" depth. Any deeper than that and you can just turn the piece. I don't think it will be worth it to have the Tenryu sharpened. By the time there's mucho cuts on the blade there will probably be no teeth left to sharpen! The next thing I'm going to try is put the 7 1/4" blade in my wood cutting miter saw to see how well that works.
Reply to
Zorro

Be sure to clean out all the sawdust first. Combining woodworking and metalworking without a great deal of care about sawdust cleanup inbetween is a great way to meet the local fire department (hot chips smouldering in sawdust).

Reply to
Ecnerwal

Be sure to clean out all the sawdust first. Combining woodworking and metalworking without a great deal of care about sawdust cleanup inbetween is a great way to meet the local fire department (hot chips smouldering in sawdust).

Yeah I know that one. I caught the garage on fire years ago when I first got my Oxy-Acetylene setup. I was even welding outdoors! Just set the lit torch down for a couple of seconds. I hope "my" statistic is all used up now. ;-)

Reply to
Zorro

If you could have supported the ends that were dropping on the floor as you were cutting them you might not have had so many chipped teeth. The pieces tend to swing down as they are cut and hit the bottom of the blade and this is what causes a lot of chipped teeth. Keeping the blade set to just cut the depth of the metal helps, but makes the cut slower and uses more power.

I gotta get me one of these. I have a vertical panel saw made for wood, to pick up from a friend for free. It needs a power unit (skil saw). I can see using it to cut sheet metal and sheet iron into pieces without using the plasma cutter. Thanks for reminding me to get up off my ass and get it.

Jamie

Zorro wrote:

Reply to
Jamie Norwood

I mean the portable circular saw, without the blade. IIRC it's the saw that was featured in the video link Ernie posted a while back. It's designed specifically for metal cutting, I think the speed is slower.

Well blow me down! Now I get it. I went back to HF's site and found this one too.

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$99 bucks including blade is tempting. Might be good to use and abuse and throw away. They claim it will cut from 3mm to 7mm. I hope they're referring to wall thickness and not total thickness!

Reply to
Zorro

Wow I hadn't realized that Harbor Frieght was making a knockoff of the evolution saw.

Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler

Ummm - the lowest forward corner is the last to be cut. Just before it's cut the cut-off would start to pivot on it, away from the top. As the cut is finished, the rotation would continue and the piece would fall _away_ from the blade. I think! Am I missing something?

Bob

Reply to
Bob Engelhardt

I wonder what the rpm rating is?

Reply to
John L. Weatherly

If Jamie's running into the same problem I had, he binds the blade by supporting the stock too far away from the blade, and the end nearest the blade drops down, binding the blade, damaging the cut, kicking the cut stock across the workshop, and potentially chipping teeth. My solution was to buy two $15 drill press vises at Home Depot, mount them on a table, and clamp the stock on both sides of the cut. Combine that with an angle iron frame/guide to run the saw in, and you get clean cuts with precise angles.

Sam Perkins

Reply to
Sam Perkins

If the blade is protruding say an inch below the cut then sometimes the drop off can swing past vertical and hit the bottom of the blade as the blade gets lower as it passes by the drop off. Going slower solves this problem.

Actually I haven't had that problem. I never clamp the drop off ends together. I always clamp to the left of the blade with the drop off falling to the right of the blade. I don't let it fall far, just a little to clear the blade. I especially do this with my dry cut chop saw. What does happen sometimes when gang cutting thin pieces is that the pressure of the saw blade bends the pieces forward as they are cut and when the blade clears them they snap back and bind the blade. I gave a friend a Dewalt one for some help on a job and the first thing he did was clamp a stop to the right of the blade with the work clamped in the vice to the left of the blade. The cut off (actually the piece he was going to use) bound up between the blade and the stop and broke 3 teeth of the new blade. Live and learn.

Be careful out there, these dumb tools don't care if they are cutting metal or flesh.

Jamie Norwood

Reply to
Jamie Norwood

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