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Soldering aluminum to brass

A buddy brought me a motor from his golf cart that wouldn't run. Opening it up revealed that one end of the field winding had come unsoldered from the bolt head that served as a terminal. The bolt was brass, and the field winding (not really wire, but insulated bar material about 3/16" square) appeared to be copper, with the end nicely tinned. After a few unsuccessful tries at soldering it with 60/40, I realized that the winding was not tinned copper, but aluminum! What solder and flux (if any) should I use to solder these two dissimilar metals together. I'm using a Henrob O/A torch with its smallest tip.

John

Reply to
John Holbrook
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The process you want to do uses a technique called "friction tinning" with

90/10 followed by pad wiped solder 63/37. This is the procedure we use for soldering aluminum sheath high voltage oil filled cables to the plumb bell joint.The real trick is clean , and clean. Did I mention clean? Additionally you must really watch your heat or you will re-oxide the aluminum and separate the solder alloys. The technique works because the 90/10 is worked into the aluminum with a stainless steel brush and the top coated with the 63/37, the final connection is made with 40/60 without disturbing the previously deposited alloys. I have personnel used this on 60kV to 230 kV cables. We also use thermite welding for copper connectors to aluminum flat buss bars and IPS round substation buswork.

Good luck Pete

unsuccessful

Reply to
Walt Springs

TIN is the best solder for Al. You can find some at a common hardware store - often there is flux their on the self.

Had to use that in making grounds on Al chassis :-)

Martin

Reply to
Eastburn

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