1/8" is massive.
I go for smaller rods over larger, and just run more passes.
My favorite size is 0.045".
Even 1/16" rod seems like a telephone pole most of the time.
The only time i have bought 1/8" rod was to use it as pin stock.
Fascinating, I'll have to try some smaller filler. All I've ever used
was 1/8" and it never seemed too big to me and I guess it minimizes the
amount of filler feeding I need to do. I'm just using a HW-18 torch at
about 150A peak usually.
One thin I noticed is that if you go to a smaller rod than you are used
to, you have to pay attention or you will undercut the work! I have not
noticed as much of a problem going up in size.
I mostly use 1/16" for steel and aluminum. If I am welding something
large, I will go up to 1/8" but it is rare for me.
I usually use the largest diameter reasonable for the job.
Carry 1/8" ER70s-2 and ER80Ni-1 for low and med alloy, (works well above
175amps). Also carry H-13 (hot work tool steel) in 1/8" and 3/16" to
limit dilution when tool steel welding.
At 100 to 150 amps usually 3/32", 50 to 100 1/16" and at lower amps I
often just use mig wire or make a rod using my lock wire pliers.
hope this followup goes through, trying to set up to new server....
Once saw a guy at AWS convention welding edge of razor blades at 8 amps
with 3/64" filler and vision system... SICK.
So people would buy them, of course, I took the brochure....
As I remember, there were some boiler welding guys next to me that
thought it was neat (wouldn't need the extra man to hold a mirror).
Because every TIG pro has usually figured out the tricks to it to make
it look easy.
Yet it serves little purpose but to impress people who don't know much
Mind you the aluminum pop can makers have been making this trick harder
and harder over the last 20 years with thinner and thinner pop cans.
Still any seasoned TIG pro should be able to run a bead down the side
of a pop can without blowing holes through it.
Turn the high freq down as low as possible, use an extreme "cleaning"
wave balance, a 0.040" pure tungsten, and 0.024" 4043 filler, and a pop
can with all ink removed from the side.
Be aggressive with the filler to control the heat and proceed.
Just takes practice.
Welding razor blades is even easier.
Just set them up so the edges are leaning into each other in an outside
Then just run a very low amperage arc down the edge and fuse them
Most the kids from the CC that show up at the neighbors "real welding"
business that "try the can stuff", weld the ends together... (that's
better than nothing, I've never had the urge to try).
The guy welding with the vision system was building up the edge of the
razor blade, and on the remote monitor the edge looked like heavy plate,
what I thought was neat at the time was how close an arc he was holding,
(gap maybe .010" or less, just a guess). You could see the filler
migrating off towards the arc like the edge of a candle over a flame.
And keeping the auto stabilization off at that low setting is pretty neat...
Merrick microplasma had a system then that could weld (keyhole) that
thin stuff without filler (they would demo with .015 316SS coupons).
Used to love to go to those shows....