Wire rope question

I made up a wire rope cable to put across a driveway. One end was already looped with a thimble and ferrule.

On the other end, I was trying to cut the cable with some good bolt cutters, but couldn't get it good enough to fit through the tight ferrule.

Am I missing something?

Do I need to put solder on the wire rope, then cut it with a grinding wheel to get a nice enough end to put through the ferrule? I am using the ferrule that has room for two cables in it, and they fit tight. If there is ANY frayed wires, it won't go through.

Do I need a better pair of bolt cutters? Mine is American and good, but it just smashes them down. This is pretty tough cable, and has several strands around an inner spiraled core strand. It is 1/4".

Suggestions?

Steve

Reply to
SteveB
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Bolt cutters cut solid metal bars and bolts. They would mash the cable oval and not function well as you found.

I'd suggest getting a single wire ferrule - and hacksaw through the center of it after the ferrule is locked on.

Then you are cutting a tight bundle acting like a bar. You might want to grind or hand file a sharp end.

Just an idea - I don't do it for a living.

Martin Martin Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH, NRA Life NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

SteveB wrote:

Reply to
Martin H. Eastburn

"SteveB" wrote in message news:Z71_e.81971$DW1.36490@fed1read06... | I made up a wire rope cable to put across a driveway. One end was already | looped with a thimble and ferrule. | | On the other end, I was trying to cut the cable with some good bolt cutters, | but couldn't get it good enough to fit through the tight ferrule.

Toss the bolt cutters and get yourself a hacksaw or cutoff wheel and some sturdy tape. Tape up the nearest "clean" piece of that end and cut through it with a hacksaw or high speed cutoff wheel (best, but mind the heat messing up the tape.) Keep the tape on forever if you feel like it, because it keep the end from fraying. With larger cable you use steel wire to lash the end, but tape works just fine for smaller stuff. Masking tape is best; you just don't want anything stretchy or something that will stop doing its job when you cut it. The tape trick also works great for bungee cord, rope of damn near any kind, and so forth. I "cut" small nylon cord with a lighter and as soon as it softens up through and through I pull it apart. The tape will keep any stranded material from fraying, which is a royal PITA. I screwed up a several thousand dollar aircraft cable assembly a few years ago before I figured that one out.

Reply to
carl mciver

Yup- I work with a lot of wire rope.... Cutoff wheel and tape. Works like a charm.

Rob

Fraser Competition Engines Chicago, IL. Long Beach, CA.

Reply to
RDF

- "SteveB" - spluttered in news:Z71_e.81971$DW1.36490@fed1read06:

Oxy/acet and throw a little braze on it.

Reply to
Greg M

Reply to
rigger

Then how do I get it through the tight ferrule?

You might try reading the entire first post.

Who is spluttering now?

Steve

Reply to
SteveB

- "SteveB" - spluttered in news:Yld_e.82014$DW1.24728@fed1read06:

You're welcome. Do go back and read *your* post. Specifically the last line. HAND

Reply to
Greg M

Sorry to pop your balloon. The question came after several attempts to put the cable through the ferrule. And even after drilling out the ferrule.

The question is: (for you and those in Rio Lindo) how does one cut a cable so that the ends are clean, and the diameter remains EXACTLY the same?

HTH, but I doubt it.

Steve

Reply to
SteveB

Have you tried an abrasive chop saw, with the cable just snugged in the saw's clamp?

*---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---* Many people would rather die than think; in fact, most do. [Bertrand Russell] *---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---*
Reply to
xModem

If you use one of the methods like the cut off wheel the rope bundle will stay together.... Then it will fit in the ferrule. So the problem is the tool you are using to cut the wire and not the ferrule. If it still will not fit after using a cut off wheel use a grinder to round the end off and that should do it. If not then you have the wrong size ferrule. I have wire cutters that I use. They have curved jaws that keep the wire round and together thus solving the problem.

Jim

Reply to
Jim A

Put the cable through the ferrule, cut it, then pull it back into position.

-- Jack

Reply to
Jack Hunt

| >HTH, but I doubt it. | >

| >Steve | >

| | Have you tried an abrasive chop saw, with the cable just snugged in the saw's | clamp?

You still have to lash the end of the cable. Regardless. What you use for lashing depends obviously on what you're working with. Anything you do if not will bend the strands around, doing nothing but pissing you off. It's too easy to do it right, and too hard to do it wrong. To secure the cable in something, clamp it between a couple 2x4's and cut right at the edge or through the wood. You could cut it with an arc welder, possibly, then grind it smooth without getting to the strands.

The goal is not to disturb the lay of the strands while cutting. In the end, it all boils down to whatever works for you.

Reply to
carl mciver

That is good IF you have a clean cut to start with.

Steve

Reply to
SteveB

Could you not impregnate about an inch of that cable with super glue, let it dry and then cut through that inch with a high speed grinder and a 1/32" cutter wheel?

You might also use a hose clamp to keep the wires tightly bunched while you cut it flush with the edge (with the above grinder) of the clamp, then just barely loosen the clamp and feed the cable into the ferrule.

If the diameter of the cable is too small for a hose clamp to work, use the smallest hose clamp you can find to clamp a piece of rubber hose around the cable while cutting. Slit the hose if you have to, just to get it on the cable. Cut flush with the hose clamp (cutting the hose too) and it should leave the cable in its original shape.

Or just say "screw it" and fasten that end of the cable with a couple of u-bolt clamps. Use a hammer and block to mushroom the ends of the threaded bolts so they can never be unbolted. Or weld the ends of the bolts to the nuts after tightening them. Welding. What a concept!

Cover the whole mess with heat shrink tubing after you're done.

-- Jack

Reply to
Jack Hunt

I am down now to the last two inches of fresh cable. I have one last chance to cut it, and then I will have to get a fresh piece of cable about 15' long to have it just in one piece. I DID leave the ferrule on there after making a poorboy splice so that when I do cut it, I can slide the ferrule on without having to unlay the splice.

Problem is, both my grinders and cutoff saw were stolen a few weeks ago. So, the project will wait until I go buy a good set of cable cutters, or a new grinder. I am currently watching some on ebay.

Steve

Reply to
SteveB

If you don't have a clean cut and can't get one - then get different ferrules. Simple as that - if the shoe don't fit - get another size.

Martin Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH, NRA Life NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

SteveB wrote:

Reply to
Martin H. Eastburn

Well that's that. It can't be done. Sorry.

-- Jack

Reply to
Jack Hunt

Use "Crosby" clamps and bugger the threads so they can't be undone. They can be had in cadmium plate or stainless steel.

Reply to
The Nolalu Barn Owl

Been there. Done that. But I still want to clamp the tail coming out of a poor boy splice back to the main cable with a ferrule. Crosby clamps are just too easy to take off even with boogered threads.

But then, cable is simple to cut, too. Just hope they are not carrying bolt cutters.

Steve

Reply to
SteveB

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