Wrought iron Fence

Hi gang. Another question from the hack-welder.
I've got it in my head to put in my own wrought iron fence..... OK, more
like a "hot rolled" fence, but you get the idea. What I've got in my head
is to use 5/8" square bar steel with spear finials on top. I need it pretty
tall to keep my hunting dog in the yard, so I'm thinking 6 feet tall with 5
inches between uprights and weld them in 6 foot wide panels. Connected
primarily by 2 horizontal 5/8" square steel bars welded to the front (or
should I be looking for pre-fab punched channel to slide the bars through?).
What I haven't decided on is how to connect the panels. I see a lot of the
commercial fences use square tubing pre-punched to slide in the "arms" of
the square steel. I could buy square tubing and either simply butt-weld the
horizontals to the square pickets, or drill a hole and then fill in the gaps
by welding after I've mounted the panels.... I'd appreciate any ideas. I
suspect many of you may have practical experience with the project-- and may
have some pitfalls for me to avoid.
If you've got the time, I'd appreciate your ideas. Thanks.
Joe the hack-welder
Reply to
Dr Insane Demento
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"Dr Insane Demento" wrote: (clip) What I've got in my head is to use 5/8" square bar steel with spear finials on top. (clip) It is common to use square tubing, which can be flattened at one end, and then clipped, to produce a kind of spear point. Lot cheaper to make, though less authentic. However, I doubt your hunting dog would know the difference.
Reply to
Leo Lichtman
When I made mine I found a company, and I don't have the link or name at hand, but they sell everything you need to do wrought iron fences. Cheaper than you can make from scratch. The tubing and other you can get locally and save the shipping charges. B.G.
Dr > Hi gang. Another question from the hack-welder.
Connected
"arms" of
butt-weld the
ideas. I
Reply to
MachineShop
i think it was ernie who mentioned
formatting link
there are (many) others. (they confirm the 4" rule mentioned previously)
b.w.
Reply to
William Wixon
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I'm curious, always wanting to know why. :-)
Do you think this is so some child or small critter won't get its head caught between the bars?
Other reason?
Thanks,
Al
Reply to
Al Patrick
Building code to keep a child's head from getting stuck. It is often referred to as the "4 inch ball rule". If a 4" ball passes, the railing fails. I don't know that a backyard fence would need to comply, I do know that it applies around swimming pools. The rule holds just as true under the fence. As the rail comes down a staircase, the rule shifts to a 6" ball in the triangle created by the tread, riser, and rail bottom.
(top posted for your convenience) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) snipped-for-privacy@7cox.net
Reply to
DanG
Thanks for your wisdom. I wouldn't have even thought about being in violation of a 4" code!! You guys might've just saved me a lot of heartache on that deal. If my spacing is closer, that's going to add some weight! My guestimate for 6 foot panels with 5" spacing was going to be about 113# per section. They just got heavier.
Am I crazy to want to do the project in 5/8" square bar rods, rather than the ever-popular square tubing? I just love the look of solid-bar fence.
Joe Hack Welder
Reply to
Dr Insane Demento
I use 1/2 round, and drill holes thru flat stock to run them thru. Or weld them to 1 inch sq. 1/8 wall tubeing. Stuff from King is cheap and makes it look a LOT better. Duel sheild wire and co2 gas works nice on the castings. I have had hard wire spark and pop or run "hot" when weld the castings on. Duel sheild stoped all that.
Les
Reply to
PIW
Thanks. I figured it had something to do with safety, just wasn't sure what idea they had behind it.
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DanG wrote:
Reply to
Al Patrick

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