Building and Programming the Ultra Stick 40

Hello Fellows:
I recently built the H9 US 40. I have the complete building and
programming instruction (for Futaba 9C) written up, and I will post
them soon.
Reply to
Mr Akimoto
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Look'n forward to read'n them!
-- tailskid
Been modeling since '49 - which makes me an Old Fart
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Building and Programming the Hangar 9 Ultra Stick 40
The first topic I should get into is a selection of radios for this plane. Since I wanted a full-house set up, flaps and full-span ailerons, only two radios met the minimum requirements to provide these features: The JR XP8103 and the Futaba 9CAFS. Both radios come with digital servos, but the JR only has a 7-channel receiver (R700) while the Futaba has an 8 (R148DF). However, the JR servos, DS 811s, are considerably stronger at 54 oz-in of torque compared to Futaba's 43-oz-in S3151s.
Quality certainly wasn't an issue, since both are highly regarded by the R/C cognoscenti. However, Tower Hobbies had a very attractive price on the Futaba of $334 (Chief Aircraft's price for the JR was $379.95). Also I am a member of the Super Savers Club, so shipping was free. In regard to programming, I thought the JR would be much easier to set up than the Futaba; however, I happily discovered the Futaba was a piece of cake. Fortunately, for all of you, I am going to provide complete flight tested programming instructions for the 9C.
I own a one hundred acre tract of land with a hangar and a landing strip which also serves as flying site in a very secluded area of the rural hinterlands. Although strong winds aren't uncommon, the field is sheltered for the most part by trees. Hence I can generally enjoy flying on any of my three runways with light winds. But the point I am trying to make is I thoroughly tested the Ultra Stick 40 before I wrote this piece.
The model is a very docile flyer. In fact, it flies as well as any trainer (I think better!). Using an OS 46 AX engine, it rotates after only a short take off roll. In fact, I hold in a bit of down elevator to prevent it from leaping off the ground. Landings are too just as uneventful. Just get it lined up with the runway, cut the power, and give it some up elevator as it gets ready to touch down. The model is legendary for its aerobatic performance, so everything you have read about it is quite true. The only thing I suggest in this regard is you head for higher altitudes before you test out its capabilities.
The Hangar 9 instructions are step-by-step and excellent. The manual says the building time is around 15 hours, but I probably took twice that amount due to meticulous assembly. Use plenty of 30-minute epoxy and carefully measure everything before you leave it to cure. Except for the motor mount, all the hardware was just fine. The engine mount is a real piece of pot metal crap. A fine engine like an OS deserves a first class mount (Tower Hobbies part# OSMG2774). A solid mounting for the engine reduces vibration, helps extend engine life, and makes the model a smooth flyer. I used 4-S3151 servos for the flaps and ailerons. It is important to use servos that have the same torque and response time on these control surfaces. With digital servos, it is also important that there isn't any binding in their motion. In addition, I used 12" Futaba extensions to extend the servo leads. To insure there weren't any control surface failures, I used Parson Clips (PRNM1000) to secure the connections. I also used 12" extensions from the receiver. Make sure you label all the leads as being either left or right Flap and same for the Ailerons.
For the rudder, elevator, and throttle, I used S3004 servos. These are cheap and work very smoothly. Also since I fly for long periods of time, I upgraded the TX and RX batteries to NiMHs. For fuel, I use total synthetic (18% oil content) with 15% nitro, but I broke it in with a fuel with some castor oil content.
To insure your engine operates reliably, you should very carefully follow the prescribed break in procedures. For the OS Max 46 AX:
1. Run it full bore for one minute (needle valve opened 1.5 to 2 turns).
2. Run it for 10 seconds at the point it just begins to 2 cycle.
3. Run it for 10 seconds where the engine 4 cycles.
4. Alternate 2 & 3 until the tank runs dry.
5. Begin flying where the engine just begins to 2 cycle and close the valve a couple of clicks for each subsequent flight.
6. The needle valve should eventually be set at a point that OS calls the optimum RPM. This is a point of about 5 or 6 clicks rich of maximum RPM. OS engines will not run reliably at their leanest settings or maximum RPM. Many old timers argue this is wrong, but if you like dead-stick landings, you can follow their advice.
I should also point out some things about the break in procedure. First Max says that their engines are made out of the finest materials using the most accurate and high tech manufacturing methods. As a consequence, their engines only need a very short break in. In fact, it can be done while the engine is in the model. I agree, but I use a test stand to break in my engines. This isn't really necessary, and I know many people who have simply started flying out of the box with a rich setting.
I suggest following the break in procedure to ensure maximum engine life. In fact, I don't think one can wear out a well broken in and cared for Max. Also note the alternating between 4 and 2 cycle operations. This is extremely important to do. The 4 cycle operations ensure the engine receives plenty of lubricant while the 2 allows the metal surfaces to adjust to each other or to mate. Finally, another good reason to break it in on the ground is to discover if there are any fuel system delivery problems.
Now we finally get to programming the 9C. This is pretty easy to do, but I highly recommend that you study the manual in detail to familiarize yourself with the operation of the radio system. The first thing to do is to plug each servo into its proper port on the receiver:
Channel 1 - right aileron Channel 2 - elevator Channel 3 - throttle Channel 4 - rudder Channel 5 - battery Channel 6 - left aileron Channel 7 - left flap Channel 8 - right flap
First go into the BASIC menu and select (press dial) the MODEL submenu and number and name your plane:
Next go to the PARAMETER submenu (under BASIC) and set the following:
Go to your TRIM sub-menu and do a trim reset and adjust the size of the trim step to 5 for all channels. Next adjust your control linkages until your control surfaces are more or less neutral. Finally, fine tune the control surfaces by going to SUB-TRIM.
Now set up the control throws using END POINT and a handy little gadget from Great Planes called Accu Throw accordingly:
Ailerons: + and - 1.25" Elevator: + and - 1.4375 Rudder: + and - 3" Flaps: Down 1.25"
Note: For the moment, you'll only be able to set up the control throws for elevator and rudder. We'll have to do some further programming before we can set up the throws for the flaps and ailerons. I'll send you back here when we can.
Next you want to set your high, low, and exponential rates using D/R/EXP:
D/R (high) = +100% +100% D/R (low) = +50% +50% EXP = -30% -30%
Note: You can set your high and low rates up on one two-position switch or leave the elevator, rudder, and ailerons on their respective default switches or A, B, & D. Also note the great graphic displays of the control throw movements.
Next you want to activate FLAPERON. Do this by going to the ADVANCE menu by pressing the Mode/Page button and select FLAPERON and:
Note: The default rates are OK. You can now go to END POINT and adjust the control throws of the ailerons. I should also say a few words about FLAPERON too. The main purpose of activating it is to select CH 6 for the second aileron servo. If we were also using the ailerons as flaps (FLAPERONS), we would want to set the amount of their movement (FLP1 and FLP2). Since we are using CH 7 and CH 8 for flaps, we aren't concerned about this. However, the exception to this is if you want full-span flaps (See following).
Next activate FLAP->TRIM:
MIX = ACT RATE = 10%
Note: If you want full-span flaps, you'll have to adjust the rate to give you the same down movement as the flaps (Channel 7 and 8). Also note that FLAP->Trim defaults to VR(A). You may want to change this assignment. For example, you could assign the function to the same switch as the flap switch (G in our case).
Next activate ELEV->FLAP:
MIX = ON or OFF (depending on the position of the switch) RATE (up) = -35% RATE (dn) = +35% SW = C POSI = UP
Note: The flaps should droop on up elevator and vice versa. All control movements need to be carefully checked once your model is assembled and operational. If there are errors, you will have to go into appropriate sub-menu and change a + to a - or vice versa. Also you'll most likely need to go to REVERSE and change the directions of some servos. Finally, you should check out SERVO to get a graphical representation of the movement of your servos.
Next activate AIRBRAKE:
MIX = ON or OFF Note: The rates have to be set within AIRBRAKE for AIL1, AIL2, and ELEV to establish the following throws:
AIL1 = 0.75" AIL2 = 0.75" FLAP = see note below ELEV = -0.625"
We'll establish the setting for FLAP elsewhere. It will all become clear three steps from now.
Note: The throw of the second aileron servo or AIL2, which was assigned to CH 6 in FLAPERONS, is adjusted by changing the rate of FLAP. The setting of AIL2 has no effect.
Select SW SELECT and:
Go to PROG.MIX1 and:
Go to PROG.MIX2 and:
Note: In the above two mixes, the rates are initially set to 100%. You will now have to adjust them both so that with SW C in the down position (AIRBRAKE on), the flaps are down 1.625". Now go to PROG.MIX3 and:
MIX = ON MAS = 7:AUX1 SLV = 8:AUX2 LINK = ON SW = G POSI = NULL RATE = +100% +100%
Now go to PROG.MIX6 and:
MIX = OFF or ON MAS = 1:AILE SLV = 7:AUX1 SW = H POSI = DOWN POS-1 = +100% POS-2 = +50% POS-3 = 0% POS-4 = -50% POS-5 = -100%
Now go to PROG.MIX7 and:
MIX = OFF or ON MAS = 1:AILE SLV = 8:AUX2 SW = H POSI = DOWN POS-1 = +100% POS-2 = +50% POS-3 = 0% POS-4 = -50% POS-5 = -100%
Note: Note the great graphical displays of the linear mixes.
Finally, we are almost there with the last step. Go to AUX-CH and:
CH5 = NULL CH6 = Vr-A CH7 = SW-G CH8 = NULL
Your flaps will now operate off SW G:
Up = Spoilers Center = Flaps neutralized Down = Flaps down
You can now go to END POINT and complete the adjustment of the control throw for the flaps. As I said, the programming is pretty straight forward and intuitively you should be able to follow it. When your model is all set up, you'll be able to determine if it's correct by the position of the control surfaces and the amount of throw. Here's what you should end up with:
1. High and low rates with -30% exponential on switches A, B, and D.
2. Normal ailerons with down flaps on SW G.
3. Full-Span ailerons with SW H down.
4. Airbrake with SW C down.
5. Full-Span Flaps (See notes for setting up).
6. Who knows?
Don't forget to check the CG. I used the Great Planes CG machine. Incidentally, the programming of the radio is quite logical and easy with a minimum of buttons and dials to push and turn. Turning on your 9C and following the above steps, you should be able to directly program your radio without any fuss. If you can't, I'll cheerfully refund your money!
Mr Akimoto
Reply to
Mr Akimoto

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