JR radio internal battery

Not for a Tech class Ham License currently. Ya do need a license tho. After the first, the code requirements will be dropped for all classes. Time to upgrade to a General Class, I think!

Believe it or not, the FCC just did away with the code test for ham radio licensing.

Ed Cregger

Ah-ha, another Whitworth accolyte.

Ed Cregger

And it's about time...

Yeah, it turned into more expensive CB a long time ago.

Ed Cregger

Greetings

My service notes from the last one I replaced a battery in (using jumpers and soldered on leads so I did not lose the settings) I used a BR-1632 Panasonic lithium cell.

Yes the cell is under the lower circut board.

One source is DigiKey

Hugh

ahdofu wrote:

Luckey you!

Since JR will not release any details of modifications you are taking a chance here that they different versions or you were just very lucky.

At least they are made by Lucas, the darksun company.

Hugh former owner of a late 1950's era MG ZA in my college days.

That one is the correct cell but is not the correct case.

If you are careful and can get it in place without interfering with the mechanics it will work.

The exact cell is one with two welded leads bent so the cell lays flat when soldered to the PCB.

Our supplier, DigiKey, calls it a P203ND Panasonic part number BR1632A/HA Is a 3 volt 120 MAH cell, standard design drain is 0.03 MA.

I really have no experience with soldering pins to the battery. It is really small and I think there is a considerable risk to do heat damage or shorten cell life by overheating it.

Our policy on electronic repairs is to only use the original part configuration for all repairs unless their is a recognized or necessary upgrade to return the item to service.

Reduces our liability exposure.

Hugh

ahdofu wrote:

Nah, he got the Lucas Prince of Darkness version.

My X347 transmitter wad dead, no beep and no display when powering .

First I measured voltage on BU bat , only some mV. I soldered a 1.5 V battery, using wires to the BU points, fusing th positive solder bridge. Then I removed the dead BU Bat. I removed from it the two stainless steel flags and resoldered to th new battery, a watch 2032 bat, put in on location, soldered an simultaeously rebuilt the bridge and removed the 1.5V battery. Then I switched on power, and rebooted as Ron explained me ( onl shortcut between 2 points) : long beep, I switched off. I switched on, magic, all program was there, and no need to recal . I checked it on many program steps and all I checked is good, servo neutrals and ranges, dual rates and mixes. I will fly one of these good first spring days. May be I' ve been lucky. Andr

-- frenchomebuilde

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Good job. mk

Which two points do you have to short in the X-347 in order to get it to reboot? TIA

Ed Cregger

Look the board on wich is located the BU bat. Under the piece o

plastic, is written "R" on a large vertical track. Close on the right

-- frenchomebuilde

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Thanks, Andre. I'll get the old X347 going again, thanks to you.

Your English is infinitely better than my French. Take care.

Ed Cregger

Please let me know, so I will understand if I' ve been lucky or no

... Have a good day Andr

-- frenchomebuilde

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Thanks André!

Before I start, I need to mention that most of what I talk about her shouldn't be attempted by everybody. If you have any doubts, send i in for service!

So, here's my story.... I've had my JR X-347 for 13 or 14 years now and it's been one of those expensive purchases that I haven't onc regretted. It was, and still is, an excellent radio.

My backup battery started to fail, giving me the "BACKUP ERR" message. Not to repeat too much of what's already been said, the battery is o the front side of the circuit board that's behind the buttons on th front side of the controller. I should warn you that if you take thi apart, it is VERY difficult to get both the springs and buttons back i place! So don't even attempt this unless you're totally committed t doing it yourself.

I replaced the battery with one I ordered from

I found this out the hard way, but you'll want to solder or clip a 3 voltage source onto pins common to the battery before you start. The replace the battery, remove the voltage source, put everything bac together, and you're done.

If you weren't paying attention, or you just happened to have replace the battery without knowing that you had to apply the 3V voltage sourc (as I found out the hard way), you'll turn on your radio and nothin will come on the display. You'll need to reset the radio' microcontroller. Thanks to André, I played around with the pins little and found the right ones to do the trick. If you look at th picture attached to this message, you short out the red pins with th controller turned on. The controller will beep and go into calibration mode. You probably don't want to mess around in there a all, but just turn off the radio and turn it back on, and it should b back to normal.

Now, I've been to other message boards and they suggest that it need to be recalibrated after you replace the battery as I did. Th mentioned recalibrating the battery voltage and the stick throw limits The configuration menu you see when you first reset the microcontrolle appears to set all of these. I plan to hook up my scope to the batter to recalibrate that, but that's about all I would know how to do. haven't yet found any information on how to calibrate the rest. I di notice that some of the values are non-zero, so I'm hoping that it ha some sort of non-volatile memory and saved the calibration settings but I'm not sure if that's the case or not. If it is, everything i good. If not, then I'll probably have to send it in to get i calibrated anyway. I would also suspect that a recalibration might b necessary once the "BACKUP ERR" message is seen for the first time regardless of whether or not you hooked up a voltage source whe changing the battery out.

Ryan

P.S. If the picture doesn't show up, look under the plastic film o the circuit board the battery was on. You'll see an "R" on a wid trace. If you follow this trace back to the battery, you'll notic it's a ground trace. The microcontroller pins are to the right of th "R". If I was using my head a little more, I would have thought to tr to reset the microcontroller, looked up the pinouts of the controller and found the reset pin. They typically have a reset pin that yo either pull high or ground out to reset the microcontroller. I don' know if the pin I found is the reset, and I haven't looked up the microcontroller. So there's a chance that it is something else that just happens to reset the microcontroller. Again, try all of this at your own risk! But anyway, it's the fourth pin of the microcontroller starting with the pin on the bottom left, if you're looking at the side of the circuit board with the traces.

P.P.S If you want to know about what the service menu does (for calibration, etc...) check out: