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Mods to the Uproar

I rudely interrupted the other thread, so this one has been started for comments on bashing the (.60) Uproar kit (or the .40).

I definitely want to add a canopy to the plane, and the trike gear is something I will consider, although I would like to learn a little about tail draggers (which I haven't flown, yet).

I appreciate the help on wetting down the balsa in order to get it a little more "bendable". Was that Bob who suggested straight ammonia? Hey, Bob, does that smell as bad as the CA? Maybe it covers the CA smell. In any case, since my lovely bride has ammonia around here someplace, it will be ammonia that I try, though I wonder what a few minutes with a steam iron might do. (It might get me a bruise from said lovely bride, come to think of it. She doesn't play with my planes and I am not supposed to play with her equipment (ahem)!

I just noticed I messed up another part of the wing on the uproar. The sheet on the top of the trailing edge was supposed to go down AFTER I shaped the trailing edge to follow the curved contours of the ribs. Hmm! I didn't do that on wing number one. Looks like I go back and try to correct that little error........... or I could make the same mistake on the other wing and then add a little to the leading edge of the aileron to match the thickness of the wing's TE.

I'm making enough errors in this build, but that was kind of the reason for doing it in the first place. I hadn't built anything for many years, and I didn't want to practice on the Bruce Tharpe's Venture 60 kit. I got the Uproar for $25 and figure I can afford to make some errors and learn in the process. This building stuff is kind of fun. I may even decide to build the GP Ultimate Biplane kit I bought by mistake. Rather than sell it, I will probably make that next winter's project ........ maybe. I sure don't plan to build everything from a kits, however. I started this hobby too late for that.

By the way, one of the things I noticed in the plans for the Uproar was a mistake they make with the 2B reinforcing piece (I guess that a doubler)at the TE of the root rib. The plan shows it glued to the root rib, while the picture shows it attached to the "rib" in the center section. I don't see where the instructions mention it at all. I glued it to the wing tip side of the root rib, since that's where the plans showed it.

By the way, it appears that Titebond may be compatible with CA. It may, in fact, act almost as a kicker for the CA or maybe a thickener. The joints where I used the two seem tight.

Any other suggestions for mods? Or suggestions, in general.

Harlan

Reply to
H Davis
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I flew an Uproar 40 till a defective batt pack did it in. Thing was a total blast to fly. The 40 sized Uproar comes with a canopy. As far as bashing it (things I plan to do with my 2nd Uproar), I would mount the motor at a 45 degree angle to allow the exhaust to blow under the plane instead of over the wing. I would also definitely mod the vertical fin/rudder. Cut down the fin to allow a counterbalanced rudder. I have a framed up couterbalanced Uproar rudder but the plane was destroyed before I could do the mods.

Reply to
Fubar of The HillPeople

Dan:

How about an explanation of "counterbalanced rudder". We inexperienced types aren't sure what you mean. (Ok, forget the "we"; make that "me".)

Harlan

Reply to
H Davis

Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these great (and sometimes not so great) words of knowledge:

Acounterbalanced rudder (or elevator ) has part of the moving surface (typically at the tips on the elevator and at the top on a rudder ) FORWARD of the hinge line. The purpose of this is that the airflow over the surface helps reduce the amount of torque needed to move the surface. This link will provide some pictures of counterbalanced rudders.

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Reply to
Ted Campanelli

Counterbalance might not be the proper term but basically Im talking about a rudder that extends forward beyond the hinge line for the top 3rd to half. On the Uproar I would cut the vertical fin down a couple of inches then build a new rudder that incorporates the missing fin area into its shape. I am sure somebody can explain that better.

Reply to
Fubar of The HillPeople

In article , Ted Campanelli wrote: | Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these great (and sometimes not | so great) words of knowledge: | > Dan: | > | > How about an explanation of "counterbalanced rudder". We inexperienced types | > aren't sure what you mean. (Ok, forget the "we"; make that "me".) | | Acounterbalanced rudder (or elevator ) has part of the moving surface | (typically at the tips on the elevator and at the top on a rudder ) | FORWARD of the hinge line. The purpose of this is that the airflow over | the surface helps reduce the amount of torque needed to move the | surface.

It also helps prevent/reduce flutter.

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Or google for `control-surface mass-balancing'.

Reply to
Doug McLaren

Ok, guys, I think I now understand the concept of a "counterbalanced control surface" relative to why it is desirable. What I'm wondering is what effect does the piece that is forward of the hinge have on the intended control force. Does that forward section still promote the same response to, say, a given rudder movement? Or does it work against the desired response, but in a very minor way? Would a control surface that is "counterbalanced" perform differently from a control surface of the same area without counterbalance in any other way other than tending to decrease flutter? I guess I'm thinking about drag issues here.

I guess I'm showing my ignorance here, but I'll admit to needing an education on this subject.

Harlan

Reply to
H Davis

One thing it does is increase rudder surface area without increasing the overall length of the plane. The Uproar 40 is a bit lacking in the rudder dept when it is stock. Knife edge flight is near impossible. Part of this is the shape of the fuse which is just four slab sides. Some guys have built turtle decks as a mod. Anticipating the next question, a turtle deck is where the fuse is built up behind the canopy and tapers down to the actual fuse near the tail. This gives the fuse a higher profile and helps streamline the airflow to the tail surfaces. The stock shape of the Uproar rudder has most of the rudder surface kind of in the draft of the rest of the plane decreasing its effectiveness. Counterbalancing the rudder gives it more surface area near the top of the rudder where the airflow is less deflected by the fuse. I got as far as framing up a new rudder for my Uproar but the plane impacted before I was able do the mods on the plane itself. I miss that plane!

Reply to
Fubar of The HillPeople

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