Help with tail weight on a Tower Hobbies Uproar 40

Hi, I am currently assembling a Tower Hobbies Uproar 40 ARF. I am putting an OS .46FX on it which will put me in a nose heavy situation. A recent article in Model Airplane News reviewed the plane with the same setup. The author stated he had to "bury 3 oz. of weight in the tail" to get the CG right. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to add weight to the tail with the least amount of destructive re-engineering? I considered mounting the battery behind the wing, but once the wing was epoxied in I'd never get the battery out if necessary. I am also considering adding a battery "hatch" which, with the additional bulkheads and epoxy, might work if the battery isn't too big for the fuselage taper. Your thoughts are appreciated.

Reply to
rcflyer620
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Mounting the battery behind the wing is a good start. Best to have "useful" weight rather than dead weight.

Reply to
Paul McIntosh

I've also seen overpowered Uproars with the rudder and elevator servos mounted on plywood plates near the tail surfaces. Since the Uproar is draggy anyway, you could mount the ply externally.

Morris

Reply to
Morris Lee

I just used some stick on weights and then screws to make sure they don't come off.

Reply to
C G

Are you sure the .46 is any heavier than the .40?

First off, can you slide the engine to the rear of the mount and drill new mounting holes?

Next step would be to move the battery aft.

Another consideration would be to eliminate a heavy spinner if you are using one; just stick to a simple prop nut.

And unless you are going for wild maneuvers, a little nose heavy probably won't be noticed.

Reply to
Lyman Slack

================ Moving the battery is probably the most desirable method. If you use a 'square' battery pack instead of a 'flat' one you'll be able to go farther back before fuselage taper stops you.

It's funny how two versions of a plane are so different. I'm building the Uproar 60 kit and using an ASP-61 for power. The plans show the battery a few inches behind the CG. When my brother brought over his CG machine the battery ended up inside the fuel tank compartment. That probably means I put too much glue in the tail, or that small changes add up when they're behind the CG. I replaced all of the 2-56 control rods with 4-40 and used Dubro adjustable 'steel-stud' control horns instead of the tiny nylon parts that came in the kit.

Reply to
Carrell

Unfortunately, with the ARF, once the wing is in there's no way to get anything in the fuse unless you create a new access hatch behind the wing.

Reply to
C G

In order of preference:

Move battery back Move engine back (even using different engine mount to bring th backplate bolts up against the firewall) Move servos back

Put on a heavier tailwheel and tailwheel bracket (make any added weigh USEFUL in some way other than just being lead

-- fhhuber50677

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Reply to
fhhuber506771

True, but if it needs to move very far, the square pack might fit better because it's about 1x1 rather than .5x2

Reply to
Carrell

Wow, thanks for all the good ideas. So here's what I did... The last three inches of fuselage has a bulkhead installed which made it the perfect place to isolate some weight.I cut the bottom sheeting just behind the bulkhead and the removed that small piece of sheeting back to the tail. I reinforced it with another small piece of balsa and made a hatch out of it - easily secured with a few 4x1/2 screws. I inserted enough lead to get it to balance then stuffed some foam to fill the rest of the cavity, then installed the hatch. I left the lead unglued in case I want to take some out after the first couple flights. When I am happy with the performance I can glue the hatch back down.

Regards, --Mark

Reply to
rcflyer620

Reply to
Brad

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