Tower Kaos 40 ARF question

While I can't offer any direct advice Harry, I'd encourage you to contact Tower Hobbies' customer support with your question if you don't receive a quick and satisfactory response here. I had a question about an engine I bought from them and the phone support person tracked down a technician and got me a qualified answer in just a couple of minutes.

You want the belly pan to have good purchase with the wing. This means that you should carefully strip just enough covering from the wing to allow the glue to bond to the wood under the covering.

If you are quick and are sure that you can finish your work before the 5-minute epoxy sets up, by all means use the

5-minute epoxy. If you are unsure, use the 30 minute epoxy. Or, if the fit of the belly pan is really good, no large gaps, you can even use CA, assuming that you have some on hand.

The belly pan is non structural on this model, meaning that it is not load bearing, so it isn't important that the glue joint be super strong. Just make sure that you are glueing wood to wood with whatever adhesive that you are using.

Ed Cregger

The belly pan is not critical and holds nothing together. You could use Elmers glue! Or maybe even the paste. Ok, lol, but Elmers glue actually work's real well!

I would cut away the covering enough to get good contact but not so much that you expose wood outside the joint. then, 5 minute epoxy will be fine as would medium CA

That's very true, but white Elmers is not fuel proof. You need the yellow stuff.

It cleans up with water. It gives you lots of time to put the piece in place and it is very strong when dried. An excellent choice.

Ed Cregger

Any advice would be appreciated.<

Harry,

Under the note of "any advice". There are 5 Tower Kaos 40 MK II ARF's in our club. They are all great flying models- however- they ALL were factory built with upthrust. While the model flies with upthrust, it performs much better with a couple of degrees of downthrust.

Most of them just have a couple of flat washers installed between the motor mount and firewall on the upper two screws (to change the thrust angle). It's not elegant, but it works. Mine was the first in the club, and the thrust angle was changed at the field under the "that looks about right" measurement system.

If you are not sure about the thrust angle on your model, ask a more experienced modeler in your club to look at your competed model before you fly it. I would suggest either someone who builds, or someone who flies aerobatics or pattern. They should be able to check the thrust angle by eye.

Hope this helps Ken

Thanks for passing that long, Ken. Much appreciated.

Ed Cregger