monokote or ultracote

Go to Tower Hobby and get Econocote, I just bought a six roll package a month ago for about $7.00 a roll.

I have just finished a Mr. Mulligan and it took almost 8 rolls by the time I was happy with it. My plans are to fly it for a while, and next year maybe recover it in silk, so I wasn't interested in using the high priced stuff..

You have to be careful with ebay, because if it's old covering the adhesive may no longer be good and it may not stretch as well as it used to.

THanks folks, I could not find any close color that i want (maroon metallic) . Besides , point with the "age" issue make a lot of sence. Will go with store then.

"Mitty Mit" ÓÏÏÂÝÉÌ/ÓÏÏÂÝÉÌÁ × ÎÏ×ÏÓÔÑÈ ÓÌÅÄÕÀÝÅÅ: news:Gbmjb.646$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr22.news.prodigy.com...

Changing the subject....

Was that the A and A industies/ Nosen Mr. Mulliganthat several of of bought earlier this year? If so, any comments or major changes on the build? I'm just clearing off my building board now to start mine after a summer of small electrics. I have a nice Saito 1.80 twin FS waiting for it's new home to be built......

PCPhill

Tower's regular price is $11.99 per roll for monokote.

John VB

I have a load of pics of mine on ofoto if you are interested in viewing them.

FredD

The changes I made, (but first a caveat - my son claims I always over build :>} )

1. I covered the rear fuselage with 1/8" sheet and used 1/8" square for the simulated longerons. I used a converted 31cc Ryobi and wanted more weight in the tail area for balance as well as additional strength.. I was not happy with the way the horizontal stab was attached and added structure to suit my idea of how it should be. (this plane was designed for a geared .60)

2.The ailerons are controlled by individual servos in the wing to make taking it apart easier.

1. added 1.5" total dihedral to the wings, mainly because it looks better.

1. I did replace all the "die crushed" wing ribs with hand cut replacements. That was a personal choice and I probably could have got by with replacing 4 of them.

2. The cabin hatch uses monocote for the hinge, I first used a 2 " wide piece from fuselage top to the thin plywood piece. Then the plywood was covered with balsa sandwiching the hinge between.

1. All in all, for the .00 cost for the kit, it was a good deal and a fun build. It sure impressed the neighborhood kids when I set it outside to take pictures!

2. When you start, let me know and I will send you a photo of a finished crutch, the instructions mumble something about "the shaded areas" and nothing is "shaded". Once you have the crutch and the top half finished, the rest is a breeze. The bulkhead instructions and the supplied plywood do not agree. The landing gear pieces are narrower than those pictured and you have to fiddle a bit.

Caution: Econokote is not fuel proof. The oil will creep under the edges.

Awesome Fred! If I decide not to homebrew the graphics I'll drop you a line Thanks,

PCPhill

Thanks for the tips. I was already going to do the ailerons seperately, I think that was unheard of back when it was designed. Ditto on the belt drive .60 . I don't think there was anything better at the time.

I haven't decided whether to recut the ribs or cut them down and use cap strips.

I need time to spread everthing out and just stare at it a while, thinking through the build. I'd love to see the pics. I'll drop you a note when I get started.

Thanks, PCPhill

replacements.