Re: Clevises that don't flop about

I think the best answer would be to either use ball links as suggested, or do you know the metal clevis tip?

Replace your horns and fit the metal clevises, these are usually too big for the holes in the plastic clevis. Dont drill anything - just clip them on to the hole and warm them with a soldering iron. The metal clevise will melt the horn and push its way through under its own tension. Let it cool and you then have a perfect fit.

I usually use the metal clevis at the servo and ball links at the moving surface. Perfect!

Brett

SCM wrote: > Hi, If you are really bothered by the slop, use ball-link clevise > setups like all the heli guys do.

Brett wrote: > I usually use the metal clevis at the servo and ball links at > the moving surface. Perfect!

Yes, I think I will probably end up doing what you both suggest with a clevis at the servo and a ball link at the horn.

My only concern was that the ball link connection at the horn must necessarily be assymetric and I once had a problem with the brass type of control horn where they came unglued from the assymetric forces and turned as the control surface was driven. (I got round that by using a ball ended standoff in place of the horns' clevis adaptor)

It's more elegant to use a clevis at the horn end as it leads to a symetrical load and these horns are the type where the clevis adaptor screws onto the horn which is a threaded rod. I suppose I could just put nuts above and below the adaptor but the whole thing is a big pita and I'd be much happier if the dammed clevisses just fit the horns.