Re: engine mount

> I have a related and very basic question. I'm building my first > plane...a Stick 40 Plus. I'm not using a prefab engine mount, rather > just the hardwood that makes up the main structure of the fuselodge. > > I have trimmed out the mounts to fit the engine in snugly. It is about > 1.5 degrees turned to the right...as per the instructions. My > questions is what type of screws are typically used? Do I drill and > use wood or sheet metal screws into the wood? Or drill and use machine > screws through the hardwood member? There is a plywood plate to go > below the hardwood after the engine is mounted... > > Is there a typical way to go? > > Thanks! > > -EJK : ) > > > -- > EJK > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > EJK's Profile:

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The best way to mount an engine in a Stick 40 is to drill all the way through the hardwood and hammer blind nuts into the bottom. Then, use long

4-40 screws (the kind with Allen heads) with lock washers to bolt on the engine. BTW, the Stick 40 flies better if you use a touch of downthrust. Put a washer under the engine's rear mounting lugs.

Morris

Reply to
Morris Lee
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Morris-

Makes sense to use a machine screw. I didn't want to put that muc trust in threads in wood alone! I can then place the plywood floo below the blind nuts and make them disappear. Agree?

I'll try the washer idea. But maybe after the first flights? I' using an Evolution .46 with their trainer kit. It is a three blade

10" prop plus a flywheel. That slows it down a bit for learners...

But I should probably build the wings first...before that firs flight!

Thanks

-- EJ

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Reply to
EJK

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I don't know if I would try to hide the blind nuts. Cosmetically, it would be prettier but things like crashes happen and I like to salvage my hardware if I trash a model too badly. The Evolution .46 is a pretty powerful engine for the Stick 40. I flew mine (several of them) on the venerable O.S. 40FP, "the best .25 ever made". However, Sticks 40s tend to build a bit tail heavy and the Evolution's extra weight should help the CG. Most of mine required a "heavy hub" on the prop to balance. You might want to be a bit gentle on the throttle.

Morris

Reply to
Morris Lee

No, don't wait. Put the washers under the rear bolts before the first flight. No need to hide the blind nuts, that is just extra work and weight.

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Reply to
Six_O'Clock_High

Drill thru, use socket head screws (allen), good sized washers and those nylon insert locknuts.

Reply to
Fubar of The HillPeople

One more thing -- when you get it flying, periodically check the tightness of your engine mounting bolts. Of course, you should do this on all models, but wooden beam mounts like the Stick 40 uses do compress with age and the engine gets loose. I know -- after not doing this the plane didn't fly quite right. After landing, the engine was dangling by one bolt!

Morris

Reply to
Morris Lee

I would drill through and use machine screws with nylon locking nuts.

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Reply to
Paul McIntosh

All-

Good ideas, thanks. I have not found 4-40 hardware yet locally. I' tempted to settle for 6-32. Do you suspect I will have adequat holding strength with 32s and star lock washers? Of course I'll watc them each flight...

The #4s seem pretty light duty for the job at hand. The mounting hole in the engine are just over 1/8". Even with a #6 there is som space... I did pick up some #6 blind nuts as well as flat and loc washers. Good advice, there!

-EJ

-- EJ

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Reply to
EJK

go with the 6-32. I never use anything smaller. Good insurance. On bigger engines I go to 8-32 or even 10-32 on the gassers.

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Reply to
jeboba

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