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Sig SeaLane building tips and considerations

I a have just ordered a Sig Sealane, and will begin building shortly. I will be installing an OS 40 LA (which was formerly pulling a LT-40 with authority), and I will install a Futaba 4 Channel with standard servos.

I have never flown off of water before, and I have never built a watertight craft before. I am seeking advice regarding the best type of components to use, such as pinned vs. nylon hinges, and effective construction and waterproofing techniques.

Also, anyone familiar with this particular craft may be able to suggest a good prop size or type (9" or 10", 3 blades or two?). Any tips on balance?

Thanks-

Sisyphus

Reply to
Sisyphus
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One tip when flying off water is to have sufficient power. The Sealane is designed for a .40 size engine but an OS 40LA would not be my choice. You need ample power to break the surface friction of the water and I would strongly suggest a more powerful 46 size engine. In the air, float planes also have more drag due to those appendages hanging from the wing and the external power pod. Standard hinges are all that are required. The hull should obviously be waterproof and this is best achieved by ensuring that all joints are tight and sealed. during construction and that your finishing method ensures no water gets into the wood or inside the hull. I prefer several coats of finishing resin and then paint for the hull. Try to mount your radio switch where it is least exposed to spray. A two bladed 10-6 to

11-6 prop is adequate for a 40 to 46 size engine. When you're ready, pick the right day (morning) with just a tiny ripple on the water.
Reply to
strathboy

That may be in the wings in the near future- as is a blackwidowav camera setup- but for now, I must try to limp with a 40 LA. This engine pulled my LT-40 nicely with a 9X6- my fingers are crossed. I went ahead and ordered a 8x6 3 blader- but I think that I will pick up a 10X6 per your suggestion.

Damn- I have already ordered monocote. Forgive my ignorance- what is finishing resin? Does the paint need to be fuel proof? If so, what paint is waterproof AND fuel proof?

Thanks for your advice- Barring death or hospitalization, this project will go on the bench this week.

Thanks! ~Sisyphus

Reply to
Sisyphus

8-4 to 9-6 props are suitable for .25 engines but you need a 10" prop for a .40 size engine

(water) speed before lifting off. I suspect that flying hulls are easier to get off than floats and certainly generate less drag in the air

You can certainly use monokote and its definitely waterproof. Its the joins that have the potential to come loose and "leak" .Finishing resin is similar to epoxy (Z Poxy is a big brand name). I use it to prime bare wood prior to painting. Its easy to sand and several coats will give a glass smooth and hard finish prior to painting. Top Flite's Lustrecoat (spray can) is fuel proof and is convenient for a small job. Virtually all paints are waterproof. I like Tremclad enamels which are fuelproof but I'm not sure they're available in the US (Canadian)

Reply to
strathboy

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