Tower 46

I got a Webra Speed .40 that does that. It it idles well, transitions well, and runs at full throttle well; don't worry about it. Put your finger over the exhaust to stop it. Dr.1 Driver "There's a Hun in the sun!"

Yep, what you missed was all those engines in the past that we were lucky to get to idle. Now when one can't cut it off, they get iritated. I have three Tower 75's and two 46's and I am tickled how well they idle. I'll give up that cutting off for a reliable and slow idle. A rag in the prob at 2K stops it very reliably.

Dan Thompson (AMA 32873, EAA 60974, WB4GUK, GROL) remove POST in address for email

On 2/19/2004 12:57 PM Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these great (and sometimes not so great) words of knowledge:

DO NOT, I REPEAT, DO NOT THROW ANYTHING IN THE PROP OF A RUNNING ENGINE!!! This is hazardous to EVERYONE in the immediate area.

Tower engines are well known for their inability to not shut off with the transmitter. Your best bet is to either: 1st choice, pinch the fuel line closed (if accessible); 2nd choice, put your finger over the exhaust (wear a glove or use a cloth to avoid a burn); 3rd choice, shut the high speed needle valve, 4th choice, replace the front bearing with a sealed bearing.

The Tower engines are a decent engine - plenty of power for their size. They do have some "idiosyncrasies", as you have found out.

I am not even sure a sealed bearing wil work. This is the same crankcase and crankshaft used on the Raptor and that engine never seemed to have the same problem. I would look at the spiral slot on the barrel to see if it is still slightly exposed when the carb is completely shut.

If you want to try a sealed front bearing, give me your address and I'll send you one free. Then report back if it helps.

Thank you, Ted! This act is almost as stupid as stopping it with the sole of your shoe.

Not even considering the danger to yourself and onlookers, the OOB prop might literally tear the engine off the mount, or shake the plane apart.

Yes, I know there will be many of you who "have done this for ??? years without an accident." To you I say...IT'S STILL STUPID! Dr.1 Driver "There's a Hun in the sun!"

On 2/19/2004 6:03 PM Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these great (and sometimes not so great) words of knowledge:

The last I heard, Tower engines were made by GMS, but used a different carb. I don't know if the GMS has the shutdown problem or not. Perhaps Paul McIntosh can let us know - he is very familiar with the GMS line.

For a GOOD, RELIABLE, INEXPENSIVE engine, take a look at the Thunder Tiger. I have a Pro 46 and a Pro 1.20. Once you break them in they are great. They do take a little longer to break in than an OS though.

That's a legitimate question. Over the years I've seen countless modelers buying low-priced stuff, only to have to replace it when it wears out or cannot be made to perform. Let's not be penny-wise and pound-foolish. Buy PROVEN, GOOD equipment that will last you many years, and give you many hours of pleasure, rather than tinkering and frustration. Dr.1 Driver "There's a Hun in the sun!"

The Tower ball bearing engines are indeed made by GMS. It also appears that the newer, larger Tower engines may be Supertigres. They are using different castings than the GMS line.

I have heard reports that some GMS engines will not shut off but I have not experienced it myself. I have run a couple dozen GMS engines of various sizes.

Amen to that. As I said, OS rules.

And it really does. I've had a LOT of OS engines over the years, and I've never had problems with a single one. The extra $$'s are well worth it.

I have a TT Pro 46 and haven't had any problems with it. I bought a GMS 47, and although it hasn't been in the air yet, it kept idling with the throttle shut off until I richened the idle needle a touch. It now dies about 15 seconds after the throttle is closed.

Morris

Yep Dr. You're right. The rag ranks right up there with placing a finger extremely close to the back side of that spinning prop. Relying of course on the prop to knock away the finger should it get too close. But you still tempt fate anyway. And I've know people who have been bit good by such a stunt.

Stupid is as Stupid does!

Chuck

My .47 didn't shut down at idle until I tightened the hex nut on the needle assembly. No big deal.

Texas Pete AMA 59376

One of the best running engines I own is a GMS .76 ringed. It does seem to react a bit to changing humidity/temp (did one day at least), but it screams when I want it to, purrs in the mid range, will idle forever, transitions instantly, and, importantly for this thread, shuts off instantly with a flip of the tx switch. Will probably put it on my Killer Kaos whenever I finally get around to building it.

The GMS ringed engines are some of the best around. They are the first I ever owned that would idle reliably under 2K right out of the box.

Ya got THAT right! Speaking of GMS engines, you sell bearing sets for them if I recall? I have a .32 that I need to replace the bearings in due to faulty installation. Mine.

Paul,

Any background info on GMS the company?

Who ~is~ 'GMS', where are they made, how long they been around, etc??? Their web site says little....

I got a used GMS 2000 - .47 off e-bay. Runs fair, has LOADS of power ( far more than a TH .46 I have), but cuts out/dies/runs hot even set rich. Former owner had put JB Weld around base of carb:-( Air leaks? Crappy carb? --

Jim L.