Turtle wax (at least in the can) is (was) carnuba. It does work great
for a show finish. One can I think will last me a lifetime.
Talking about knife handles, I have a Gerber that I use to show how
much better my blades are, but it has a fuzzy squeezable rubber type
grip that I have to admit, may not be pretty but is great when field
dressing an animal and your hands get all bloody.
No doubt. Probably a good idea for cleaning fish (for which I'm a lot more
likely to do). I'm a big fan of making the tool suit the purpose.
Comfortable and easy to hang onto for "using knives" but I also plan to do a
lot of decorative stuff too. Did a wood sheath for my boys knife out of
black walnut and it definately would have benifited from a nice shine up.
A good handle wax is one that is a little harder than bee. Bee is often used
to coat metal as a protection....
I use floor wax. It is tough. Car wax is good and often very liquid as well.
These are harder to wear off waxes and polish to a high sheen due to the
I did some file handles on my wood lathe and used floor wax. Found in good
stores in the flooring area.
Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer email@example.com
On Mon, 6 Dec 2004 19:03:02 -0800, "Greyangel"
Wrong time of year. Best place to buy beeswax is from a beekeeper.
It's almost a waste product to them these days, so they're quite
cheap. I get mine from a guy selling honey at the local farmer's
Craft stores are _very_ expensive and some of their candle stuff is
just honey-scented paraffin wax. Woodworking finishing suppliers
carry it too - not expensive if you only need a few ounces.
Be grateful you're not doing gold leaf illumination on vellum - making
"glair" uses earwax!
And what's wrong with earwax I'd like to know?
Jewelers use nose oil all the time. There was even piece in 'Lapidary
Journal" on its uses a while back.
-- And people say blacksmithing is a dirty craft!
Projects expand to fill the clamps available -- plus 20 percent
Here in the Former Colonies, dark beeswax sells for $30-$40 per pound
from beekeepers in rural areas, more close to cities.
I mix beeswax and linseed oil 1:1, boil, let cool, then apply to
forgings hot enough to smoke, but not hot enough to caramelize, wipe off
It makes one helluva inside finish; it won't last a month outside in
areas of high humidity.
So, All these things taken in their proper place ;) what's a prefered
substance for putting a high gloss on wood handles? Or any other crafty wood
work for that matter? I've got a hand carved maple wood katana that I did
one day that I'd like to shine up nice to hang on the wall. I don't think I
could scape out enough earwax to do the job ;)
I prefer for handles more exotic woods like coco bolo, ironwood, even
purpleheart. These woods buff up to a good shine without any kind of
substance. Dont want to breath in the dust as you work them though.
For crafty woodthings like intarsia and scrollsaw stuff (dont laugh
now) I like good old gloss clear polyureathane varnish. If I want to
add some color I do a satin varnish and stain, then a coat of clear
gloss over it.
On Tue, 7 Dec 2004 19:10:50 -0800, "Greyangel"
There isn't. It's a handle - you don't want it slippery.
For tool handles, my general finish is a commercial danish oil. These
are oil / varnish mixes that are easy to apply, give a non-gloss,
non-slippery finish and don't build enough of a coating that it will
flake off if abused.
A wooden katana? Surely that's a bokken?
For general shininess, it's hard to go wrong with blonde shellac. For
maple you might like a coat of oil beforehand (commercial tung-oil
based "finishing oil" that is ready thinned and dried). This highlight
the grain and chattoyance.
Plain wax is also good on maple, so long as you buff it out well. Use
a _finishing_ wax, based on paraffin wax and carnauba, not a soft or
polishing wax like beeswax, I've posted a load on wax recipes to
rec.knives or rec.woodworking.
On Wed, 8 Dec 2004 20:07:12 -0800, "Greyangel"
Yes - shellac is the main material used in french polishing. For an
"average" shine you'd be OK just painting the shellac on with a brush
(1/2" filbert artist's synthetic bristle watercolour). For a super
gloss, learn to french polish.
These are finished with coloured shellac, the stand with a plain
(Yes, new photos are coming soon.)
No - Danish oil has varnish in it, to make it form a surface film. To
bring the appearance of the timber out, just use a plain oil. You
should use tung rather than linseed, to avoid yellowing with age.
Well it wouldn't do - you need to mix it with a solvent first,
otherwise it's unworkably stiff.
Hey. :/ Andy, I saw that movie "Personal Services" are you just
messing with us dumb hicks in the colonies? :/
I'm not a "French Polishing" -wood- worker like Andy is;) but
Brownell's claims epoxy makes the best of the "built-up type"
finishes and most durable too (if traditional methods aren't
I prefer super glue for small handles like knives, it's easier. :)
But I'm weird my personal favorite is when the wood is soaked,
dried, then all varnishing material "proud" of the wood is removed.
To remove what's "standing on top of the wood" I mostly use 0000
steel wool and sometimes in certain spots 600 grit AlOx paper to
help the process along.
Sitting outside, at the edge of the shade, so the direct sun can be
used to easily find the "dull spots" where the super glue, BeechWood
Casey or epoxy is still standing proud of the wood, is the breaker,
In the house it all looks good. ;) When you get the sun reflecting
off it... the dull spots look like filth;) or something less than
best anyway. ;)
My 700 BDL Remington stock is shiny and flashy but cheap looking at
the same time, IMO.
(local mesquite wood vs desert ironwood from Mexico)
Those have Kiwi neutral shoe polish on them.
Alvin in AZ
ps- GA, your mequite is -almost- in the mail ;)
pps- it might be nicer than that hunk too :)
I didn't. Mighta passed that one over though depending on the rating...
mmm. Have to experiment with that one. What happens when you scratch it
though? Can it be polished out?
Heard of the superglue thing before... somthing about it soaking into the
wood better? Most superglue that I've seen comes in really small bottles
though. Does it polish up glassy bright?
Discovered that sanding the Danish oil on wood will clog up paper in a big
hurry. Same with the super glue? Never would dream of using Aluminum Oxide
on wood though. Don't you get discoloration?
Cool! I got two handles I'm doing right now. The hatchet and the Utility
knife. I just got through placing and shaping (yeah, did it in that order -
never again) the bolsters on the Utility blade. Been getting by without a
drill press up to know. Doing bolsters is not real forgiving of the kind of
slop that comes with a hand drill though :/
I accidently oversized one hole trying to countersink it and got another a
bit angled. Had some other weirdness occur. Fortunately the brass material
is easily cold forged so with everything in place, I hammered the $&?#! out
of it and then sanded and filed. Dumb ass bit of work but it's starting to
look OK now. The pins don't blend in like they should but it's doable.
Learned some valuable lessons... Got to get both blades finished by
Christmas then I can get back to the swords ;-)
Super glue may give you a super shine as a wood finish, but I wouldn't
use as an adhesive in knife making. Super glue bonds get rather
brittle with age and a hard knock can cause the bond to break.
Let's put it this way: Super glue is what's used to fill the minute
voids in boulder opal before the stuff is polished. So yes, it will
polish to a glass-like shine.
The preferred brand among lapidaries is "Hot Stuff". Comes in a number
of different grades.
If you want a glass-like shine on a knife handle. Personally I'd just
wax it after finishing and buff it out for a temporary shine. That way
you can have the shine for display, but if someone wants to use the
knife, they're not stuck with a slicker-than-owlshit handle.
Some, but not as bad. If I was going to use super glue on a piece of
wood I'd take it through all but the last stage of finishing before I
applied the super glue.
Projects expand to fill the clamps available -- plus 20 percent
On Fri, 10 Dec 2004 17:26:37 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@TAKEOUTmindspring.com wrote:
that it does,, I've also had the same thing happen when using 5 minute
set-up epoxy,, but so far not with the 2 hour set-up epoxy,, even on
fillet knives that have exotic hardwood slab handles just glued to a
full tank handled blade. I do degrease the blade and the wood slabs
with a short soak in laquer thinner and allow them all to air dry for
a day before mounting the slabs. I do use superglue as a pore sealer
on the slabs after they are ground to shap and finish sanded just
before taking the knife to the buffer
The first rays of dawn make the mushrooms scream.
I think with careful cultivation I can make them do "Ode to Joy".
English made, funny accents;) and rated R for sure.
(sort of?) True story so it's cool as anything that way. :)
I suppose it can, either be "level" with the woods surface or built
up very thick or anything in between. Brownell's is really into all
that specialized wood finishing stuff and is prob'ly -the- place to
go for shiny wood finishes and information too.
Got a Brownell's catalog?
I'm not into "coated" wood. I don't want the finish to be higher
than the original wood's surface. That limits what I know about any
of this business. :/
Andy's way ahead of me there, even if he has a funny accent. ;)
The best stuff I've seen so far, Andy and others claim epoxy can be
had that can soak-in better, problem is, I have no idea where to get
any of that thin-pure-type epoxy. :/
For any sort of production (like selling knives) I'd look seriously
into Andy's thin epoxy.
That hasn't presented a problem to -me- so far. Actually the other
way around, regular thin-glue turns into gel if it sets around too
long. BTDT with a couple brand new plastic-bottled "brush
applicator inside" ones turned to gel before I got around to opening
them the first time. :/ Metal tubes for me from now on. :/
Kinda disapointed, I thought I was fixin' to be shittin in tall
cotton with that brush and the larger quanity too. ;)
I guess it can be, I'm not into that really. :/
Scot Slobodian (sp?) is where I first heard of SG's use on handles.
GA you might consider trying out the "knife-list" email list if you
have time for it. That's where i first heard about it, SS said he
used SG for his handles.
Well it is plastic, so I can't say it doesn't, but it surprized me
how cool super glue was too sand. I have some heavy-papered 600
grit reddish colored AlOx Norton sand paper I got from brownell's
about 15 years ago.
Are you confusing AlOx paper-for-wood with SiC wet-or-dry paper?
Emery is a black form of AlOx and it's for metal and usually glued
to cloth. I don't like it. Never did anything for me I couldn't do
better with something else. Cloth backed clear AlOx (usually brown
cloth) is another story tho, they seem to take more care in the
sifting of the grain size there. Emery cloth is a half-assed excuse
for grit sizes? Since it doesn't use numbers... fine, medium,
coarse and extra coarse is all I've ever seen it in. :/
And for rough work the black emery grain seems too "friable?" too.
Black emery is a natural product they dig up somewhere and glue it
to cloth. ;)
Drilling is tricky sometimes. :/
For pocket knife blades I drill first then shape everything around
You mean counter sink the edges right? (not ream it out)
Do that by hand. I have counter sinks (even a dremel sized one)
mounted in old key type drill chucks.
Since I was a young guy, I figured the main difference between
skilled and un-skilled crafstman was the skilled craftsman can cover
up his mistakes and make it look like it was supposed to be that way
all along. :)
Ok so a guy learns not to make so many mistakes but that's never
eleminated and the skilled guy saves it. (?)
Don't know how true this is anymore but read about a knife maker
that lathe-like-cut his brass pins down from brass machine screws
because it was the only stuff that was the same color as the
available bolster material. It was in a knifemaking book.
I don't have a drill press and don't plan to get one. :/
What I use are 1000rpm (max) single speed hand drills and special
extension cords I've made with a light dimmer in series. The speed
is controlled with the light dimmer and it's set and stays put until
I re-adjust it, as opposed to a couple pretty nice variable speed
drills I have. They vary in speed even like the one with a screw to
limit the trigger pull, the speed still varies some, sometimes.
I can't use a hand drill any better than anyone else... I won't give
up my single speed drills with the light dimmer, they make drilling
a nice hole, easy as pie. They make me look like I know what I'm
A drill press could be better but then the skill switches to the
setting up part of it, not the drilling. So hobby wise, it's less
Alvin in AZ
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