1. Home
  2. ⚒ Blacksmithing - wrought iron and steel discussions
  3. Finding Tools
  4. Page 2

Finding Tools

GReat Ferrous, you can cut and drill that makes lots of tools easy to make, or at least prep the raw materials for them.

That my friend is a personal thing, each smith has his or her own opinion. Me, I own at least 20 hammers, how many do I use most of the time?

  1. A 32oz ball pein(if Im reading the side correctly, its a bit dinged) A 3lb cross pein and a short handled hand sledge, weight i don't remember. I have a friend who uses just one hammer unless he needs a sledge. I must have about 40 pair of tongs, most I have collected, some I have made Most of them, your guess is as good as mine as to their intended use. Lots of other stuff, most of it gets used only occasionally.

You can have as much or as little to start with as you like. There is no exact "Right" answer (Oh I know I'm going to get flamed for this :- D ) for every one. Start where you are with what you have now. I have seen people start with a carpenters hammer and a block of wood for an anvil - horrid to use but they started. A single pair of tongs will get you started, so will a pair of vice grips or pliers, I use maybe 10 pair regularly, but when I started I had just 2 pair and had to make do with that. Flat jaw and bolt tongs I find are the most useful for me. Any lump of steel will get you started, a length of rail, the fork from a forklift, an old tractor part, start with what you can find, then get something better when it comes along. Just start, then make it up as you go along. If you wait till you have everything, or what someone tells you is the bare minimum, you may never get started. Remember you need forge, hammer, something to pound on, and tongs/pliers/vicegrips (if you want to hold something short and hot or you could just work on lengths of bar). You MUST have, that is ***MUST HAVE*** safety glasses. everything else, well you are lucky if you have it, otherwise get it when you need it.

Thats my opinion, it suits me, but not everyone. The big question is

- How much do you want to start and how long do you want to wait???

Have fun, Regards Rusty_iron, Brisbane Oz.

Reply to
Rusty_iron
Loading thread data ...

I've read some pretty horrible/crazy ideas for starting out (beating on a rock "anvil" seems like pure suicide to me, even if you know your rocks), so I'm just trying to glom some info from more experienced/ scarred types. I think I have it down to the basics: forge (likely gas and purchased, I have not the time for a build job with unfamiliar materials), hammer (more garage saling to be had; cross peens are hard to find), tongs (Channel Lock pliers and a few vise grips) and an anvil (rail). I'll pour any profits from pounding down scrap back into getting better tools. Thanks for everyone's help!

SF!

Reply to
Save Ferrous!

two rocks.

one as a hammer, other is an anvil.

once you've got those, the rest is a matter of skill and time - only thing I would recommend you buy is a post vice - a big bench vise is OK, 'til you shatter it with the big hammer (DAMHIKT), and they are very difficult to make (the trick is to make a ratchet&cam tightener, not a screw type)

_any_ blacksmith tool can be made by hand eventually - even a power hammer if you're so inclined.

A pair of tongs is 2 pieces of bar riveted (or bolted) together at the hinge. heat the gripping end orange hot, put a piece of stock between the ends, and hit them. You'll have a pair of tongs custom sized for your stock.

A fuller is a 1/2" bar - lay it cross ways on the hot stock, and hit.

Hot chisel? An old hatchet.

Flatter - lump hammer

Reply to
bigegg

You really should have an absolute minimum of two tongs. One flat and one curved for round stock. Trying to hold round stock in a flat tong can allow the stock to swing around and -get- you. A bunch of flea market vise grips can be modified as needed and will work pretty well. The longer the vice grips the better for obvious reasons. Angle iron welded to the jaws and ground to suit your needs will sometimes give better results than anything you could buy. Railroad track will work pretty well and can be shaped to your needs with a grinder. Even after you get a regular anvil you may find yourself using the RR track you modified for special jobs. It's more fun to make things with tools you built yourself. But you probably won't want to spend -all- of your time making tools (or maybe you will, it's fun) so you'll have to decide what your time is worth and if it's better to make or buy. My rule is "if it's cheap buy it, if it's expensive try to make it myself". Above all, have fun.

73 Gary

On 29 May 2007 05:01:54 -0700, Save Ferrous! wrote:

Gary Pewitt N9ZSV Sturgeon's Law "Ninety percent of everything is crap"

Reply to
Gary Pewitt

By George, I think he's got it!

Just FYI: Doesn't _have_ to be a purchased forge. A fellow I know started out heating his small work on his kitchen stove burners. (Electric and gas both work for small stuff. What his wife said about that is still unknown and he ain't sayin', but he's a respected businessman in the reenactor community now.)

Some Africans use a 5,6-foot piece of clay or iron drain pipe 4" or larger in diameter. They knock a hole in the side about a foot from one end, rig a grate, hang the whole thing from a tree branch and light off a charcoal fire. The draft you can get in one of those is impressive and forging temperature doesn't take long to reach. (Tried it myself: It works.)

Doesn't have to be a cross pein: Anything heavy you can swing and that has a more or less flat striking surface is good. ( hand sledge, drilling hammer, ball-pein, even a carpenter's hammer as has been mentioned -- That pesky neighborhood mutt is right out though.)

Rail, old "I" beam, piece of more or less flat thick steel stock from a junkyard, hunk of rock, if all else fails. (OK, the rock thing _is_ a bit extreme, but it's been done and may still be being done someplace.)

The only thing you absolutely must have is safety glasses or goggles.

I may get flamed for this, but: avoid wearing gloves when you start out. A long enough piece of iron will not get hot enough at the held end to hurt you before you notice it. If it gets too warm, grab it with tongs and cool the end in the slack tub. Shorter pieces will help you learn to use and appreciate tongs quickly -- and encourage you to make some.

And always remember:

The Blacksmith's Mantra

It's only pain. (Oh, shit!) It's only pain. (DAMN!) It's only pain. (Awwwww F*CK!!!!) It's only pain.

When you react to someone telling you you're afire by telling them: "Well, put me out, dammit, I'm busy!" you will have achieved Blacksmith satori. (Or at least the same mild insanity that afflicts the rest of us.)

Welcome to the craft!

Reply to
John Husvar

Try this link http://64.176.180.203/washtubforge.htmits simple and easy, you have all the tools needed - drill and angle grinder - and the cost is minimal. Replace the blower with an old hairdrier, cut a slot in the pipe outside the forge(side of the pipe) and slip in a bit of tinplate cut out of the side of the washtub, to use as an air gate, and your running. the whole thing shouldn't take more than a couple of hours to build, tops You could run charcoal, coke or coal in it, but coal makes lots of smoke., cost should be very low to nill if you look around for stuff.

Regards Rusty_iron

Reply to
Rusty_iron

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.