new to the trade but having fun

Hey its your design, just take the advise from others into consideration as you create it. Here are some thoughts on ways of doing this. I was once in a machine shop near the Canadian border. As I was talking to the owner about knives I looked around at his mills and lathes. Then I seen this huge 100lb Little Giant. Talk about the *wow* effect. Anyways, he wouldnt sell it, it was the only thing that would draw out tines (or maybe shares?) for some local farmer, one time a year. Oh well... "how do you heat them?" I asked, not seeing a forge or oven. He points to the floor at a heap of welding fire bricks, with a weedburner wedged into them. He had rejetted for natural gas, but that was it. Another thought is to check with your local ceramic places, the ones where people make stuff, and then have it fired. They might have some pieces of broken "shelf". Thats high temp and should make a good floor to your forge. Just so you know though, the lite brick used in those ceramic furnaces disintegrate very fast in forge work using flux. Might be OK for the walls though. Good luck and if you can put some pics on your site of what the forge looks like now, in the early stages, you might get some other ideas here if we know what your working with.

Reply to
Forger
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:-) Yeah, that was mine. Keep in mind that I'm on a constant upgrade path with my forge. Add a bit here and there for each job that has special requirements. What I need to do is build a frame that holds it up off the ground and provides work rests/supports. I'm going to be putting some brick or maybe some metal plate on the floor of it for those times when I want the extra heat soak and to protect it from borax. It'll begin to add up but I'll retain the modularity for easy transport.

GA

Reply to
Greyangel

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a way of making your own insulating refractory from perlite and furnace cement.

The big advantage of this (or Kaowool, Durablanket, etc) is that it has lots lower thermal mass than the firebrick, so it heats up quickly. Also, the firebrick you generally find is for boilers, and doesn't really insulate that well. Its purpose is to retain heat for periods when the boiler is off (*not* a great insulator).

If you do bust up firebrick, do it outside, with the wind at your back. You really don't want to get the powder in your lungs.

Steve

me wrote:

Reply to
Steve Smith

ok i just updated my site they are on page 7

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Reply to
me

good read thx, judgeing by what he said i think i'll let this layer dry then add more till i gradualy thicken it up like he said to appx 1.5 inches and try that... unless i find some of the other materials local, don't have alot of spare time to look prob end up useing the cement ( glad you posted that i was going for about 3/4" wayyyy too thin thx again

Reply to
me

It takes me forty forevers to get around to seeing the pictures etc but I check them all out and sometimes loose the thread where I want to comment on them too. :/

Mostly just wanted to say "we ain't going anywhere:)" do what you can, when you can, somebody'll be here eager to see your product. I know I am. :)

The more unusual their hobby the more a person needs a newsgroup. ;)

Alvin in AZ

Reply to
alvinj

A good source for strong and high temp bricks is the Wood stove place. The heavy duty type they use is great! Use it as a floor as it won't eat up. You can saw it with a saw, but it is a little tough on the saw.

The normal kiln stuff is like balsa wood and this is like oak in strength, has holes and pockets. It isolates the outside steel from the hot flames and IR from the coals.

It is shipped to the wood stove houses to replace burnt out and used up - remember the bottom is scooped with a metal shovel to get the ashes out.

Martin

Reply to
Martin H. Eastburn

Now, take everything that Forger wrote, and condense it down.

1) There's no such thing as too much flux. Get the workpiece cherry red and bury it in flux, two or three times reheating inbetween. Make it look like it's been dipped in molten glass. 2) Then bring it up to where it's bright yellow, like a WD40 can, then hit it like you don't like it. If the temp is right, it'll make a wet thumk sound, if it's too cold, it'll start to clang. A four pound hand sledge will make a spotweld with about a quarter inch square fusion area with each good stroke. Overlap your strike zones by about half of that to insure complete fusion. Start at one end and work to the other, 'zippering' the two pieces together. Don't try to get the entire seam in one pass, steel cools off about 100 degrees per second on the anvil, think five to ten seconds max, then back in the flux bucket and back into the fire. 3) Repeat.

I use natural gas straight off the pipe with forced air, 1.5 hp 8" impeller. It makes about a half million BTUs into a 4x4x26 box with four burner ports. On a cold dry winter day, I can hit 3000 degrees and actually turn steel liquid. And it's CLEAN! No clinker getting beat into the work like with coal, no spending

90% of worktime futzing with the fire, no choking sulphur fumes while you're coking off the charge, no complaints from the neighbors about the small mountain of black rock in your backyard because the local supplier only sells by the dumptruck load.

Happy whacking...

Charly

me wrote:

Reply to
Charly the Bastard

lol, my kinda guy charley... strait to it short n sweet... thx bud i'm anxious to use the knowledge you guys have imparted so i can get a lil practice under ma belt

Reply to
me
[deletia in places]

bury it in flux, two or three times reheating inbetween. Make it

Or, bring it out of the fire when your workpiece turns the same color as the refractory material in a gasser or coke in a coal fire.

Nit #1: You don't want to lay your workpiece atop your anvil, take aim, then hit it. Your anvil is a heat sink, so your workpiece should first touch your anvil only an instant before your hammer hits it. Nit #2: You don't want to hit it too hard, you want to hit it just hard enough to mash the molten metal together - otherwise, you'll be decorating your shop floor with the stuff that would've made a helluva weld.

Reply to
Tom Stovall

The plans for the "Sandia forge" from ABANA only have 1" insulating board. The forges I've seen which only had 1" insulation also have blued steel on the outside. I like thicker insulation, I agree that 3/4 is too thin.

Steve

me wrote:

Reply to
Steve Smith

duely noted... this is eaten me up cause i wanna go try this now dont want to wait... i feel like a kid with a new toy

Reply to
me

LOL I can just see him jamming that can of WD40 into the forge for a good color comparison!

Reply to
Forger

ewww that would made some dragons breath...

Reply to
me

bury it in flux, two or three times reheating inbetween. Make it

I mentioned the heat sinking properties of anvils later in the post. I'd rather hit it too hard than not hard enough. Cold shuts live there. It's damn hard to fix a cold shut after you surround it with good fusion, kinda like a bubble in a decal. If you can't fix it, it's scrapmetal. Of course, I do all my heavy welding with a powerhammer. I can hit harder by hand, but not as often, so yeah, I cheat.

Charly

Reply to
Charly the Bastard

found a good way to get my regulator, i was asking the wrong people when i went to buy one, they kept talking about water columns and i ask for psi so i hit a fourth local gas co. and the guys there knew what i needed... instead of $40-$50 i got this one for $23 and from what i've read i think it will do perfectly it is 0 - 10 psi

Reply to
me

oops i forgot to post a pic of the type i got

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Reply to
me

dangit

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Reply to
me

sry bout that i had a lil problem with the three mile link...

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Reply to
me

rather hit it too hard than not hard enough. Cold shuts live there.

like a bubble in a decal. If you can't fix it, it's scrapmetal. Of

but not as often, so yeah, I cheat.

What you ought to try is a powered hydraulic press. Welding a billet of damascus becomes trivial. Heat, squish a little, heat, squish a little and I start drawing the billet on edge with no delamination. Really neat.

Steve

Reply to
Steve Smith

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