Rust protection?

Does anyone know a good rust protection ... ive got raw linseed oil now as
that should work as rust protection and darken the metal if im not totaly
off here ... but i dont realy know how to use it, if anyone could explain
this in a bit more of a detail i would be very happy ... and yes im
searching the net :P
Ive seen stuff like wax for making stuff shiny and so ... anything about
this maybe? :>
I bow deeply for any answers ... have a good day .. have to get out and
work now :>
Reply to
Tomas Wilhelmsson
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I think oil of any kind can act as a rust preventative. Based on what I've read and done so far, I'd say it works.
After forging you can take some oil on a rag and rub it on the piece while the piece is warm. You don't want the piece hot enough to ignite the oil.
What I've done is to take a small piece and throw it in the forge and get it a bit hot, pull it out and quench it in vegetable oil. Then I take it out and wipe off the excess oil. And BAM! :)
I hope this helps. Some more experienced smiths out there might have better ways to offer.
Reply to
Rick Barter
You could take it to a gunsmith that does bluing and get your stuff blued if you don't mind darkening of the metal. This will also help with rust prevention.
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 07:43:29 GMT Author: Tomas Wilhelmsson Destination: alt.crafts.blacksmithing
====================================================================== "Forty years ago, when the resolution of enslaving America was formed in Great Britain, the British Parliament was disarm the people; that it was the best and most effectual way to enslave them; but that they should not do it openly, but weaken them, and let them sink gradually, by totally disusing and neglecting the militia..." - George Mason
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If that process interests you there's another called Parkerizing that leaves a "phosphate coating".
I have another process I call Hickerizing that doesn't use the expensive, proprietary, "one time use" chemicals Parkerizing uses.
I just soak stuff in phosphoric acid. ;) Read the label if it has phosphoric acid in it it'll say so. :)
The use of phosphate coatings (parkerizing not hickerizing;) are wide spread in industry... "the" ;) processing of metals before primer is applied if corrsion resistance is important like automobile bodies for example.
Phosphate coatings are porous and so soak up some of the primer or paint... it also holds oil, grease, wax or varnish and is "the" process used to make breaking-in of cam shafts work out as good as it does. :)
Didn't think that infomation applied to the OP of this thread but now that "gunsmith's bluing" has been metioned... ;)
Parroting back what I read in ASM's Metals Handbook is all. :/
But "hickerizing" works good too, especially on old rusty tools.
Before taking anything to a gunsmith to be blued call around... their prices can vary my 10 times and a bunch don't blue, but instead contract it out. Some of them feel like they are "arteests" and think they are worth more than they are. :/
BTDT and found a guy that did his and almost every other gunsmith in the area's bluing. He was also the only one that would blue my parts "as is" and not insist on a "final buffing". Man, I did not want that shiney-light-blue gunsmith re-blued look! I was after the dark-factory look and got it (and better;) for $18.50 for each old gun. Down side for most people tho was the ~200 hours sanding out each gun. In my case tho, it was exactly what I -wanted- to do. :)
Alvin in AZ
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