FS-Bandsaw Blades

I recently bought a quantity of bandsaw blades on ebay, figuring that I could use some of them in my home shop..and all are too long.

I think..think that some/most of these are bimetal Starretts..but only two of them still have the labels on them

(10) 3/4" 14T.. 14' 6" (176")

(4) 5/8" 14T..14' 6" (176")

(8) 1" 11T..12' 1" (145")

(1) 1 1/4" 4T..14' 6" (176")

(2) 1/2" 14T 9' 10" (Starett)

Make me an offer for any you are interested in, plus shipping from

93268 or 91763

If no interest..Ill take em to Reliable Tools and see if I can swap em for the 5/8" 93" blades I need.

Gunner

The aim of untold millions is to be free to do exactly as they choose and for someone else to pay when things go wrong.

In the past few decades, a peculiar and distinctive psychology has emerged in England. Gone are the civility, sturdy independence, and admirable stoicism that carried the English through the war years . It has been replaced by a constant whine of excuses, complaints, and special pleading. The collapse of the British character has been as swift and complete as the collapse of British power.

Theodore Dalrymple,

Reply to
Gunner
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According to Gunner :

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Hmm ... those 5/8" ones (item #4) are long enough to be cut down and re-welded to make four single blade ones, and two more with parts of two blades each -- assuming that your bandsaw has a functional welder.

Enjoy, DoN.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols

Ayup..I might do this. I can tig em back together or take em to a shop and have em done with a blade welder. Ive 3 blade welders..and none of them work right. Or Im not bright enough to adjust the guts to work right. Ive welded blades with blade welders many times..dont know why mine dont work properly. Shrug.

Gunner

The aim of untold millions is to be free to do exactly as they choose and for someone else to pay when things go wrong.

In the past few decades, a peculiar and distinctive psychology has emerged in England. Gone are the civility, sturdy independence, and admirable stoicism that carried the English through the war years . It has been replaced by a constant whine of excuses, complaints, and special pleading. The collapse of the British character has been as swift and complete as the collapse of British power.

Theodore Dalrymple,

Reply to
Gunner

DON'T BUY THEM...ALL THE TEETH ARE GOING THE WRONG WAY!!! GUNNER'S TRYING TO PULL A FAST ONE!!!

(The trick with blade welders in in the anealing, practice, practice, practice)

Reply to
Tom Gardner

Curses!!! Foiled Again!!!

Gunner

The aim of untold millions is to be free to do exactly as they choose and for someone else to pay when things go wrong.

In the past few decades, a peculiar and distinctive psychology has emerged in England. Gone are the civility, sturdy independence, and admirable stoicism that carried the English through the war years . It has been replaced by a constant whine of excuses, complaints, and special pleading. The collapse of the British character has been as swift and complete as the collapse of British power.

Theodore Dalrymple,

Reply to
Gunner

Okay, so I'm late and catching up, but "Tom Gardner" wrote on Mon, 15 May 2006 15:12:44 GMT in rec.crafts.metalworking :

I'm afraid to ask how he knows this ...

Besides, everybody knows those bands are for the left handed bandsaws.

Reply to
pyotr filipivich

Reply to
wayne mak

Then there is silver solder.....

Wes S

Reply to
clutch

Tom, You are right, annealing it properly is the secret. I heard once that when steel is heated to the temperature where it becomes non-magnetic that it is annealed. So I tried it using the magent on the back end of a scriber. I held it near the weld as I pulsed the welder on rapidly. When the magnet stopped pulling I stopped heating. It appeared to work quite well, as it removes the brightness of the shop lights and the color calibration of my eys from the equation. I hope some of you try it and let me know how it works for you.

Gary H. Lucas

Reply to
Gary H. Lucas

I've had some luck TIGing blades back together after they broke. I line them up on a piece of aluminium and weld them with a bit of 0.030 Mig wire. To anneal them I use a propane torch. I heat the weld area to till it just gets a bit red, and I let it cool slowly by occasionally bringing the torch back to heat it up a bit. Its best to do abunch at once so that you don't waste time getting everything set up for one blade. I then use an angle grinder to clean it up. Ive tried miging them as well but I find it harder to control because the weld is so short.

stan

Reply to
sbaer

Okay, so I'm late and catching up, but Gunner wrote on Mon, 15 May 2006 17:20:09 GMT in rec.crafts.metalworking :

Tin foil or lead?

Oh wait, this is rec.crafts.metalworking mustn't forget the Stainless steel option ...

pyotr

Reply to
pyotr filipivich

For some reason I can't start a new topic with my mac....

I have a DoAll ML 3 phase bandsaw which someone recently offered me 500 bucks for. So I did a little research online and found machines of this type going for as much as 5000. Anyone know of anywhere I could unload this behemouth for somewhere near it's actual value? It was in working order when I acquired it for my shop in a multi tool deal from a friend. It seems I made out better than I'd ever imagined!

I suppose I could list it on eBay and hope for the best?

Thanks, david

Reply to
badactor101

For some reason I can't start a new topic with my mac....

I have a DoAll ML 3 phase bandsaw which someone recently offered me 500 bucks for. So I did a little research online and found machines of this type going for as much as 5000. Anyone know of anywhere I could unload this behemouth for somewhere near it's actual value? It was in working order when I acquired it for my shop in a multi tool deal from a friend. It seems I made out better than I'd ever imagined!

I suppose I could list it on eBay and hope for the best?

Thanks, david

Reply to
badactor101

Yes, sell it in ebay, specify that buyer is responsible for pickup and transportation. Understate its condition, make very good pictures.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus23298

You may see them *offered* for $5000, but I doubt many have sold at that price. I paid $900 for my ML in good operating, but atrocious cosmetic condition. I'd say $1000-$2000 is a fair price for an ML in good to very good condition without any pieces missing.

Ned Simmons

Reply to
Ned Simmons

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