bandsaw blades

Alright. I am going to HF to get my bandsaw. I am tired of the chop saw.
Noisy. Sparky. Dusty. Dangerous. Every time I fire it up, the dogs
disappear for about twelve hours.
What kind of TPI do I need for cutting mostly .065 tubing?
What do I need to cut some 1/2" x 2 1/2" FB for my towbar mounts?
What company do I get good ones from without paying an arm and a leg?
What brand?
Thanks in advance.
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where do you live? I can get you one with 10 starret blades for a good price.
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The rule of thumb to go by is 2 or 3 teeth in the work at all times. Less and you rip a tooth out of the blade when it catches. More and cutting speed slows down due to filling up the gap with swarf.
I buy Lennox bimetal blades from J&L at their 25% off sale ( once or twice a year).
Reply to
Karl Townsend
I still have the best luck with the cheap carbon blades...stay away from Morse! I try to buy odd-size bulk reels from the tool companies like "Production Tool" or local saw suppliers, but I have a welder...paid for itself 50 times!
Reply to
Tom Gardner
Also from my experience, Starrett blades don't hold up well either. We used to use DoAll. They were ok .
Reply to
randy replogle
Exactly the opposite to my experience! I was going through blades at an unpleasant rate on my 4x6 until I bought some Morse bi-metal 14tpi blades on sale at Princess Auto. They have held up very well. This is a home shop and I cut everything from copper tube to OCS on the saw. I don't want to keep switching blades so I just hold back the saw on thin stuff. Seems to work since my blades last several months.
Reply to
Ted Edwards
18 tpi for thin wall tube.
Buy some 18, 14, and 12 tpi blades.
Lennox, and Doall are the best. Starret and Morse are almost as good.
Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler
Good luck with Starrett and Lennox for me. The vari-tooth styles are nice.
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SteveB wrote in message ...
I have had really good luck with the Aggressor vari-pitch 10-14 in the thin .020 thickness. Been using them in a Jet 4 x 6 and they have held up well. Get them on sale at Enco. Great blade IMO.
Michael no xx's in address
Reply to
Michael Cameron
Morse Carbon blades are good (odd batches will wander sometimes) but i can say striaght up that morse bimetal blades are awful. They have electron or welded beam problems affixing the teeth to the strip. whatever they use to laminate the blade is poor too. 1/2 and 3/8" bimetal blades from mrse will have the teeth strip break away from the matrixed back before the teeth even wear.
Starrett variable pitch blades are too aggressive for tubing i find. Good for solids though. If you can still find marvel blades they are your best bet but i think they are in recievership. best bet is German manufactuer called Honsberg in Bimetal or the Kennemetal Aggressor blades. If cutting tubing stay away from the positive rake unless it's an exoctic or stainless steel wall.
Reply to
Canaan Apollyon
I've been cutting everything from old car springs to EMT to Aluminum tubing and I simply have not had that problem with Morse bi-metal blades. There must be some other cause to your trouble - perhaps your saw is set up wrong or your dealer got a bad batch?
Reply to
Ted Edwards
I am a Bandsaw Blade welder for a small cutting tools distributor. I personally weld between 75 to 200 blades a day. About 15% of that is in Bimetal. I have seen and dealt with too many customers upset that I gave them Morse bimetal. I don't believe in American Bimetal blades firstly but importing everything from Germany or England is just too damn costly for my boss. Morse Bimetal blades are returned to us about one in every 40 that leave. We have to track these matters because of our ISO policies and commitments. I have dealt with the Morse head office in Canton and they have admitted a problem with all their bimetal products under 3/4" last year, although we are still waiting for credit on about 7500" feet of the stuff.
I should add that in 1 1/4" I weld about 10 15'3" blades for a titanium rod company and they ONLY want the Morse m42 Positive rake 4-6 blade. I ache not seen many 1" and over Morse bimetal blades comeback but still when I look under the microscope and looked at that electron or laser welded beam at the back of the teeth I get worried with Morse...
Reply to
Canaan Apollyon
Hey Canaan,
So, as a pro, if not Morse, then what do you recommend for us HSMers with say a Carolina horizontal using a 3/4" blade. Are there different manufacturer suggestions for different pitches?
Take care.
Brian Lawson, Bothwell, Ontario.
Reply to
Brian Lawson
I was having problems breaking a 1" 2 or 4 tpi Lennox bi metal blade in a large automatic bandsaw cutting 6-1/2" dia 1117 billet. I had never broken a Lennox blade before (or since) It wasn't breaking at the weld, the saw had hydraulic blade tensionning, the blade was perfect in all other regards, I even had a local factory certified outlet re-weld them perfectly. After the third time it broke I brought it back to the outlet and asked them to send it back to Lennox for study. They said:" Not necesary, the Lennox man is here right now." The lennox man looked over my setup and the problem was I was running too slow. That blade in that application needed to run at 350-400 sfpm. Cutting time on a 6-1/2" billet: under 2 minutes!. I didn't want to run that fast so I switched to 5-8 Lennox blade at 200, cutting time 4 minutes, no breakage, and I could cut smaller cross section items also. Running too slow, with proper tension, coarse teeth, and heavy feed created a beam loading on the blade which it couldn't stand. Lennox bansaw blades have completely changed how I use bandsaws. I won't put anything else on my own saws. Paul
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