Yeah, ahm really tryna reduce my AQ (Asshole Quotient), 'n' do things half
right, now that my own ass is essentially free of my previous hell-holed
So ahm FINALLY puttin in some coolant (after *days* of cleaning the
machine,for the first time in 7 years), essentially overwhelmed by the all
the g-d info on g-d soluble oil, so I just used what someone gave me
(Valcool), and bought another gallon of Rustlick WS5050, cuz--well, dat's
all anyone has around here!
And yeah, a skimmer is next... no foolin around, here.
So w/ 30:1 in mind (basically cuz ahma cheap/broke-assed muhfugguh), ahm
adding coolant, adding coolant, have the pump goin like crazy (wired for 230
V, of course), and ahm sayin,
Man, dis mix is just like effing *water*!
It was not until I was basically at 17:1 (two full gallons in the fadal 35
gal tank), that I got what was, in my totally neophytic mind, a "proper
Which was, apropo of the subject line, sorta like the wetting achieved by
whole milk, as opposed to water or skimmed milk. Albeit effing BLUE
But shit, we got BLUE Pepsi, so WTF, right?
So, finally, here's my Q's:
Is my intuition about "whole milk" consistency valid??
If so, is a refractometer then really necessary?
If said intuition is *not* correct, do you all just go by the mfr's
Do you experiment w/ their recs, and if so, how do you gauge the
"correctness" of your chosen dilutions?
How important is an explicit rust inhibitor? The WS5050/Valcool does not
seem to specify any rust inhibitor properties of their formulas, but mebbe
there is inherent rust inhibition to some formulas.
formerly Droll Troll
Generally the coolant will tend to bead up a bit on the parts when you blow
the coolant off with compressed air if / when the mix is sufficient--still,
a refractometer is highly suggested...
( Following is courtesy of John )
What you wanna do is make up a small test batch that is richer than what you
want to run.....say 10/1....and then you check it, noting your refractometer
reading....then you thin the mix, say to15/1 and you note the reading
again.....and so on.......until you have enough baseline readings to work
Wow... you must be one humongous shop, bro...
If you *had* to endure an error, would you rather the error be in the more
concentrated direction, or in the less concentrated direction?
formerly Droll Troll
Take a look at your MSDS sheets, or info sheets from your coolant supplier.
Some say specifically that the refractometer number does NOT equal the
actual solution. Can't remember which brand that was, might have been
spartan, but if you wanted 5%, you went to about 8 on the refract.
I guess the best way to calibrate would be to mix a small quantity of
solution at the desired concentration exactly by volume and put it in the
refractometer and see what it reads. That is the target number to hit,
regardless of what % the scale actually says...
: Yeah, ahm really tryna reduce my AQ (Asshole Quotient), 'n' do
: right, now that my own ass is essentially free of my previous
: So ahm FINALLY puttin in some coolant (after *days* of cleaning
: machine,for the first time in 7 years), essentially overwhelmed by
: the g-d info on g-d soluble oil, so I just used what someone gave
: (Valcool), and bought another gallon of Rustlick WS5050,
: all anyone has around here!
: And yeah, a skimmer is next... no foolin around, here.
: So w/ 30:1 in mind (basically cuz ahma cheap/broke-assed
: adding coolant, adding coolant, have the pump goin like crazy
(wired for 230
: V, of course), and ahm sayin,
: Man, dis mix is just like effing *water*!
Just put about 1/2-3/4 of an ich of concentrate in the bottom of a 5
gallon bucket and fill the bucket 3/4 full. Any higher- it will be
too heavy to lift and pour into the machine. I'm pretty sure you
will be in the 5-7% range.
when we tested new coolants we would make our own ratio in a five gallon
starting with 1:1 and recording the refractometer reading until we got 30:1:
note that the coolant was added to the water when we did the 1:1 because
sometimes the coolant is so heavy that it just sinks to the bottom of your
coolant tank and then is wasted
we run our coolant on the refract at somewhere between 4.5 and 8.5 with the
heavy mix when we are deep hole drilling and the regular mix at roughly 5.0
this allows the operators to add just water or coolant from our premix tank
which is set at 5.0
the savings in premixing and checking the tanks before adding to the level
can be a significant savings
Heh, yeah. Virtually all the coolant salesmen/distributors/technicians
I've asked this question of (whether to add water to the oil, or oil to
the water), have said to add the coolant in last. A little mnemonic to
help remember this is to note the spelling of OIL, the letters of which
can stand for Oil-In-Last.
We used to almost fill a 5 gallon bucket of water and use a one pound
coffee can filled to the bottom indentation and pour it into the water
in the bucket while stirring the water with a paint mixer driven by a
variable speed hand drill, this would give us our desired 10% mix.
NOW we have a water pressure driven coolant mixer that screws into the
55 gallon coolant drum and automatically mixes the coolant and is
adjustable for concentration. The exit hose is routed to the ceiling
and comes down roughly where it can be stretched to reach most of the
Even if improvement of "surrounding environment" is in the form of
smaller, smoother inserted objects. Sheeit, I'll take it!
Does graduating from the Deepak Chopra School of Enlightenment count as Self
Does one remain Self-Improved if one washes Deepak's semen out of one's
hair, does one??
On PBS, no less. Goodgawd...
formerly Droll Troll