Awl--
Yeah, ahm really tryna reduce my AQ (Asshole Quotient), 'n' do things half right, now that my own ass is essentially free of my previous hell-holed purgatory.
So ahm FINALLY puttin in some coolant (after *days* of cleaning the machine,for the first time in 7 years), essentially overwhelmed by the all the g-d info on g-d soluble oil, so I just used what someone gave me (Valcool), and bought another gallon of Rustlick WS5050, cuz--well, dat's all anyone has around here! And yeah, a skimmer is next... no foolin around, here.
So w/ 30:1 in mind (basically cuz ahma cheap/broke-assed muhfugguh), ahm adding coolant, adding coolant, have the pump goin like crazy (wired for 230 V, of course), and ahm sayin, Man, dis mix is just like effing *water*!
It was not until I was basically at 17:1 (two full gallons in the fadal 35 gal tank), that I got what was, in my totally neophytic mind, a "proper consistency".
Which was, apropo of the subject line, sorta like the wetting achieved by whole milk, as opposed to water or skimmed milk. Albeit effing BLUE milk--goodgawd.... But shit, we got BLUE Pepsi, so WTF, right?
So, finally, here's my Q's:
Is my intuition about "whole milk" consistency valid?? If so, is a refractometer then really necessary?
If said intuition is *not* correct, do you all just go by the mfr's recs/refract. readings? Do you experiment w/ their recs, and if so, how do you gauge the "correctness" of your chosen dilutions? How important is an explicit rust inhibitor? The WS5050/Valcool does not seem to specify any rust inhibitor properties of their formulas, but mebbe there is inherent rust inhibition to some formulas. TIA.
---------------------------- Mr. P.V.'d formerly Droll Troll